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How to remove a grip w/o destroying it.

Discussion in 'All Things Golf' started by BarnacleBob, Jan 31, 2016.



  1. BarnacleBob

    BarnacleBob GIM Founding Member & Mod. Founding Member Site Mgr Site Supporter

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    In the fall of last year RTHRBGLFN graciously sent me a Callaway Diablo driver with a 45" shaft. The driver is like new, but I have been struggling the length of this monster.... Today I was reading club maker Tom Wishons "12 Myths of Golf" and according to this benchmark club makers rudimentary specs, I should be playing a 42.5" or 43" length shaft... Thus I mustered the courage & confidence to sojourn into removing the grip and trimming the shaft 1.5" .... The factory grip is in great condition, so I was seeking to reinstall it post the trim job. This is the method employed & used to remove the grip allowing it to be reused.

    Tools:

    1 wire clothes hanger
    1 grip solvent or similar solvent
    1 razor knife
    1 rag
    1 ka-bob skewer

    20160131_151932.jpg

    The first thing was to carefully insert the hanger 1/2" to 1" into the bottom of the grip. Once the grip has been inserted pour a small amount of grip solvent into the cavity created by the hanger. Next move the hanger around to the opposite side of the shaft, repeat by pouring a small amount of solvent into the cavity. Wait about a minute, then slowly push the hanger deeper into the grip, add solvent. Wait a few seconds for the solvent to be absorbed then slowly move the hanger to the opposite side w/o withdrawing it from the grip. Once moved, add more solvent. Continue this process until you begin to reach the closed end of the grip. As you approach the end, be carefull not to puncture or rip the grip.... at this point, the grip should just easily slide off the shaft.

    20160131_152049.jpg

    Once the grip is removed, use a utility knife to carefully remove the double sided tape adhering to the shaft. Use a rag with a small amount of solvent to finish the final cleaning of the shaft....

    To cut or trim the shaft several options are available, DO NOT use a hacksaw or tubing cutter to trim or cut a graphite shaft. Use an abrasive style saw blade in a hacksaw frame, a dremel tool with an abrasive cutter wheel or a grinder....

    Wrap masking tape over the area to be cut and mark the cut.... file off the rough edge and reinstall the grip.
     
    Last edited: Jan 31, 2016
  2. BarnacleBob

    BarnacleBob GIM Founding Member & Mod. Founding Member Site Mgr Site Supporter

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    Considerations before cutting or shortening a golf club:

    Reportedly, for every 1/2" that a club length is shortened, the weight & balance of the club head shifts from 9 - 11 grams, in essence making the club head feel & respond lighter.

    For years, nay decades, the #1 driver possessed an overall length of 42.5". It was not until the advent of the growing size of driver heads up to the 460 cc model and the ad mens race for boasting of "longest driver" on the market that driver shafts & o.a. length thereof began growing into the 45"+ long monsters they are today. Most off of the shelf drivers are 45+" while the #3 woods are 42.5" - 43"......

    Almost NONE of the Pro's are playing with drivers of this length. 5'9" Sergio plays a 43.75" o.a. length driver, while Bubba Watson uses a 44.5" driver..... Needless to say, there is a lesson here when even the Pro's reduce the length of their competitve #1 drivers...

    It is true that the longer drivers DO provide extra distance, but that distance comes at the cost of control & accuracy. Besides that extra 1" in length results in only about a 3 - 4 yrd extra carry.... The question then becomes would you rather drive 235 and hit 75+ % of fairways or would you rather hit 239 yrds and constantly find your balls in the woods or in the rough???

    Below is a chart of specifications provided by master club maker & fitter Tom Wishon for initial consideration for driver & 5 iron length based upon floor to wrist measurement considerations.

    To make the floor to wrist measurement correctly, wear flat-sole shoes only, stand comfortably erect, shoulders perfectly level, arms hanging relaxed at the sides. The measurement is made from the major wrist crease on the dominant hand to the floor in inches plus any fraction.

    "Wrist-to-Floor Measurement for Initial Club Lengths (inches)"

    Wrist-to-Floor - Driver Length - 5-Iron Length

    27 to 29 ~~~~~~~~42~~~~~~~~~~~~36.5-
    29 to 32 ~~~~~~~~42.5 ~~~~~~~~~~ 37
    32 to 34 ~~~~~~~~43 ~~~~~~~~~~~~37.5
    34 to 36 ~~~~~~~~43.5 ~~~~~~~~~~38
    36 to 37 ~~~~~~~~44 ~~~~~~~~~~~~38.25
    37 to 38 ~~~~~~~~44.25 ~~~~~~~~~~38.5
    38 to 39 ~~~~~~~~44.5 ~~~~~~~~~~~38.75
    39 to 40 ~~~~~~~~44.75~~~~~~~~~39
    40 to 41 ~~~~~~~~45~~~~~~~~~~~39.25
    41 to 42 ~~~~~~~~45.5~~~~~~~~~~39.5
    over 42 ~~~~~~~~46 and up~~39.75 and up

    Note: A wrist-to floor measurement is used as the initial guideline for determining club
    lengths for the golfer that will match well with their height and arm length for comfort.

    My wrist to floor measurement is 31.75", the chart indicates that I should use as a beginning length point of 42.5" - 43". This is just one consideration that points to optimal length for my floor to wrist measurement, yet weight & balance of the club must now fall into consideration. If I cut 2" from the butt of the shaft to achieve the optimum 43" o.a. length, this is the equivalent of losing 36+ grams @ the club head. Not only would I lose the weight, but the shaft would become some what stiffer also. Thus we find several other considerations when trying to find the best driver set up....

    There are other remedies to countering the loss of weight & balance, lighter grips, lead tape, weighted paste, etc. can be used to off set the imbalance. But rather than go thru all of that, one would try to find a happy medium between the two considerations.

    Take for instance Sergio, he is 5'9" and plays a 43.75" driver... The 45" oem driver is prolly a SW of DO2, but after trimming the length, his driver is around C7.... His optimum length is prolly the same as mine, 42.5" - 43", but the balance, weight & feel require the 43.75" length....

    The simple fact & reason that anyone would shorten the length of a 45+" driver shaft is to provide greater control over the club, meaning its easier to hit the center of the club, a.k.a. the sweet spot. If the average golfer hits the sweet spot more often with a controllable shortened shaft, his average drives will result in longer & straighter shots. The key word is average.... For example, the average golfer may hit dead center once every 20 or so drives, pounding the pellet out straight out 250 impressive yrds... but the other 19 times he is playing military golf, right-left-right anywhere from 200 - 235 yrds distance, usually finding the rough, or the cart path, street or even a house.

    The question then is are you willing to give up the occasional 1 in 20 250 yrd pokes for a steady & straight 225 - 235 average drive by shortening the shaft 1/2" - 1.5"???
     

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