Misty, what, on your truck , is more important than BRAKES ?????
Thanks taez, you're right.Misty, what, on your truck , is more important than BRAKES ?????
Put the best on & be done with it, it is far cheaper AND faster, than having problems & then doing it right !!!
Left over from my business days.
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Thank you. The calipers are oh no more than half a dozen years old and I did what you suggested the other day after installing new pads and new rotors. I didn't like the look of the calipers but the truck's been stopping fine so I put them back on but now I'm trying to pinpoint this grinding and I still don't know what it is but in the meantime there's a lot of work to be done aside including and axle shaft seal and probably bearing U-joints on the front drive shaft and basically the whole suspension.
I never rebuilt one but I got 21 years out of my front calipers by cleaning them good every time I changed the pads. 2 main reasons the calipers hang up (older GM) is the pins they move on freeze up or the pads themselves bind up in the grooves the ears fit in. The pins have little rubber boots over them that should be full of green grease. By the time you realize there is a problem the grease is gone, the pins are dry and rusty and nothing is moving anymore. The pad ears are supposed to ride in shiny metal clips with more green grease, but yeah, those go dry too.
Autoshack is a new one to me. Might be good for some stuff but things like CV axles, ball joints and steering parts I would stick to name brands.
Reminds me of this old Fairbanks Morse. They used to power mines, lumber camps and even small towns with these.
good tips irons. I actually had to modify the new pads because the rare or squeal Bars were hanging up on the caliper I'm the outside pads and I just ended up snapping them off. I hadn't thought about modifying those grooves in the pad. Excellent tips because the way that the clips fit on this particular caliper are not all that splendiferous.I never rebuilt one but I got 21 years out of my front calipers by cleaning them good every time I changed the pads. 2 main reasons the calipers hang up (older GM) is the pins they move on freeze up or the pads themselves bind up in the grooves the ears fit in. The pins have little rubber boots over them that should be full of green grease. By the time you realize there is a problem the grease is gone, the pins are dry and rusty and nothing is moving anymore. The pad ears are supposed to ride in shiny metal clips with more green grease, but yeah, those go dry too.
When you have one off set it carefully upside down on something or the frickin' line will break. I use a jack stand I put in the wheel well with a chunk of 4x4 on it. Then make sure the piston pushes back in smoothly with a C clamp. If it doesn't want to move freely push it in a ways then step on the brake pedal and push it back out. Then squeeze it back in with the clamp. You can almost always get the piston moving freely again by manipulating it like that. Take the pins out and wire wheel the feckers until they are shiny again and also wire wheel the groove the boot fits over if that's rusty. A dremel with a few wire wheels is your friend. Literally fill the boot and the pin guide pocket with green grease when you reassemble it.
If the shiny metal guides the brake pad ears ride in are worn through replace them, they are cheap. If they are good clean them and run a file over them to remove any high spots. I use a small diamond file for that. You want to fit the pad ears to them so they move smoothly. I can't remember ever buying a set of pads that didn't need to be ground at least a little. Even just rounding off the sharp edges can be enough to keep them from binding up. Use more green grease on these.
You can buy a little tube of green brake component grease for like $12, or you can buy a small tub of Lucas super heavy duty high temp grease from hell for like $4. I go with the Lucas. Brake grease is a rip off.
I just did everything above to my real calipers about a month ago. The rear disc brake system on my S10 is a freaking failure in progress. If I don't take them apart and grease them once a year they freeze up and stop working the second year. Yay GM!
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Unless...... you have a vacuum leak somewhere..... & I mean like anywhere.
Yep, did all that a couple years ago. The first vac line to go is the one you described, it goes to the vacuum reservoir. Gen 1 S10's had the hanging ball reservoir the gen 2 has it in the fender.
Those were the days! By 2000 reaching down to engage 4 wheel drive with linkage on the hump was no longer an option on GM. The last S10 I had that had the 4 wheel drive on the floor was a 1996. That was also the last S10 I could get air conditioning and a manual transmission. By 1998 if you wanted AC it only came in the package with an automatic trans. Feckers. GM pisses me off.
Simplicity is the highest form of sophistication.
I have four drawers in my tool chests for sockets, two for metric 1/4 and 3/8, two for standard 1/4 and 3/8. I also have a couple socket sets that have a molded plastic carrier for the sockets, with markings for the sizes.
The tools and sockets that are organized are either not being used much or like mine, OCD keeps 'em all in there right place and all organized by size, type or purpose.
You must be fellow alumni from U-DO.Easy peasy. I buy cheap socket sets wherever I find them and have sets in every vehicle, tractor, sprayer, shop and house.
Then I go look for the one I need.
What holds them? Strips?
So you must have that mechanic's eagle eye who can look in a 5 gallon bucket and know the diameter by sight.
Oh yeah... Open it up wrong or the cheap plastic latch with only a memory for a spring remembers that it was unlatched and the whole 201 piece 'set' will be scattered in the mud. And then it goes in the bag- minus that 10mm socket of course.
Embrace the madness of what they're calling 'OCD'. But there's nothing disorderly about it.
