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- Mar 31, 2010
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Guaranteed heart sinker that oneFirst Start Up Engine Knock Prank
17 seconds
Sometimes it just doesn't pay to be cheap...So, my f'n left front hub started the howl of 'grum, grum, ohhhhhhhhh, grum, grum.' I rode that poop 25 miles home thinking it would be the trans-on a-mission. BUT, nope it was the left front of center hub; friken lefties!.,
anywhoos, they cell er sell only a complete hub assembly for $112 ant/at
No
Auto
Parts
Available.
No bearings just a complete hub. So they sell these timkin bearings in sets, only problem is a question of to freeze or not to freeze?
I-B-freezing the stud part of the hub in dryice with ace-tone and pressing out. remember folks: when freezing hard shit do not, and I mean-DO NOT- strike or impact close chrystal metals when frozen as it will shatter and well it shatters in pieces....kind of chips off in big pieces..
I listened to the first three minutes and then gave up.Scotty's latest: with a 3 minute rant against wall street.
It does if you plan ahead.Sometimes it just doesn't pay to be cheap...
Right? I actually installed Monroe's new Invisi-shocks...Sure some funny look'n shocks !!![]()
Yeah, that's good and all but does the engine start yet?
Good tip.So I was driving home in my Saturn, with the window down, enjoying a nice day. Almost home, I roll up the window. It stuck about halfway up. "Well, I should wait until the car is parked before doing anything more." And... It's stuck. Completely. The glass itself has a little wiggle room, but the handle is determined not to budge at all.
Fast forward some, and I find that the "regulator" (the mechanism that raises and lowers the glass) is not stuck. It moves freely in a small range. The problem is with the crank gear and the steel half-circle with the teeth. With penetrating oil, patience, and sheer will, I managed to get the window all the way up. This is its new home. But that is not the point of this post.
I had removed the plastic barrier that went between the door frame and the door skin so that I could get to the mechanism. This was really nasty from two decades of use, and I was not going to try getting it back on.
So my plan was to use ordinary clear plastic poly film for the new barrier. Well, from past experience I know that poly film is not really happy to cooperate with ordinary adhesives. But I had an idea. I had some contact cement from doing a new countertop, and that DID seem to work with poly film. And that's what I did. I cut out a rough size, somewhat larger than the door area, and did the top first. Then I did the sides, trimming after each run, then the bottom.
To use contact cement, you apply some to each surface, wait 15 minutes, then push them together. It bonds instantly. For large projects, you might use a paint roller or brush, but I found out that the roller and brush were trash afterwards. Here, I used a piece of cardboard I tore from a box of cereal. It dripped a lot, but since it was outside on the dirt, no problem.
This contact cement is pretty good stuff! Their instructions made me think I might need several quarts to do 35-40 square feet of laminate, but I only used a quart or so. So I have plenty for other projects.
is the crank gear separate from the motor?So I was driving home in my Saturn, with the window down, enjoying a nice day. Almost home, I roll up the window. It stuck about halfway up. "Well, I should wait until the car is parked before doing anything more." And... It's stuck. Completely. The glass itself has a little wiggle room, but the handle is determined not to budge at all.
Fast forward some, and I find that the "regulator" (the mechanism that raises and lowers the glass) is not stuck. It moves freely in a small range. The problem is with the crank gear and the steel half-circle with the teeth. With penetrating oil, patience, and sheer will, I managed to get the window all the way up. This is its new home. But that is not the point of this post.
I had removed the plastic barrier that went between the door frame and the door skin so that I could get to the mechanism. This was really nasty from two decades of use, and I was not going to try getting it back on.
So my plan was to use ordinary clear plastic poly film for the new barrier. Well, from past experience I know that poly film is not really happy to cooperate with ordinary adhesives. But I had an idea. I had some contact cement from doing a new countertop, and that DID seem to work with poly film. And that's what I did. I cut out a rough size, somewhat larger than the door area, and did the top first. Then I did the sides, trimming after each run, then the bottom.
To use contact cement, you apply some to each surface, wait 15 minutes, then push them together. It bonds instantly. For large projects, you might use a paint roller or brush, but I found out that the roller and brush were trash afterwards. Here, I used a piece of cardboard I tore from a box of cereal. It dripped a lot, but since it was outside on the dirt, no problem.
This contact cement is pretty good stuff! Their instructions made me think I might need several quarts to do 35-40 square feet of laminate, but I only used a quart or so. So I have plenty for other projects.
There is no motor. There is the plastic handle that connects to a spline shaft. That shaft has a gear that engages with the half-disc wheel with teeth that rotates to raise and lower the glass.is the crank gear separate from the motor?
Ahhhh, old school! Gotcha. What year's the Saturn?There is no motor. There is the plastic handle that connects to a spline shaft. That shaft has a gear that engages with the half-disc wheel with teeth that rotates to raise and lower the glass.
Yes there is. You are the motor.There is no motor.
It can't be stuck if it's a liquid...Today, boys and girls, we are going to discuss applied thermodynamics.
Can you say "smoke wrench"?
View attachment 207011
As applied to
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We need to expand that pesky bearing race .020 so that it will slip right off without grinding or cutting on the crankshaft.
If the crank gets junked I will blame you