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5 Reasons Fixing Your Own Car Will Change Your Life

BigJim#1-8

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1608009111244.png
 

newmisty

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Anyone have any tips on removing a seized wheel hub assembly?
 

newmisty

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I'm about to go out and tackle the hub removal and I've been doing some study so that I put in the least amount of effort possible.

Last night I got the bolts removed which was quite an ordeal in and of itself due to the shock absorber stud and CV joint being in the way in addition to them being seized. Had to sawzall off the stud.


So far this(knocking off wheel studs and using threaded rod or bolt to push off) seems to be the method I'm most comfortable and confident with:


Screenshot_20201218-143333~2.png
 
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newmisty

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southfork

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Hoping to replace my door window motor in the am
 
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newmisty

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Couldnt get it off yesterday. Shes seized on there all good and Northern vehicle like. Left it soaking in more pb blaster for now.
 

newmisty

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Victorious!

After making several tools to help get it off, it was the decision to sacrifice the handle on my inherited grandfathers chisel. It was too long to fit inside the wheel well in hit it so by cutting it down I got enough purchase to finally separate it and was able to work it free but man was that thing on there.

20201218_194648~2.jpg
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20201219_170229~2.jpg
20201219_170250~2.jpg
20201219_192043~2.jpg
20201219_192127~2.jpg
20201219_184609.jpg
 

newmisty

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...so now that I have a new wheel bearing I've incidentally created another problem....

Now I can hear the other one going out!
 

newmisty

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This was a pleasant little vid.
(Fyi i set it at 1.5 speed)
 

newmisty

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stoli

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I had the pleasure of hearing that noise way back in 82.I was racing my cousin who owned a suzuki gs 1100e
( which i bought from him a year later to please his bride to be) I had a hemi orange 70 dodge challanger with a 383.
My car was no match for that bike but I just keep on chasing him, foot to the floor. When I stopped at a red light after about 2 miles of this motor abuse I could hear the knocking of metal.

It was a good learning experience. I bought a book on rebuilding a v8 mopar and got to work with some rented tools. I don't remember the cost to rebuild but it was fairly cheap back then.
 

Casey Jones

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I have heard something like that.

Which turned out to be something in one of the pulleys or on a belt, slapping metal.

I have also heard real OMFG engine failure - a rod knock, which came apart about two minutes later (I didn't know, then, what it might be). It's a far more muted sound than someone banging the bumper.

That's a good punking trick, there, but someone who's been around the block a few times wouldn't be fooled.
 

newmisty

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Scotty's latest: with a 3 minute rant against wall street. :D

 

newmisty

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Scotty announcing his 1 billion views
 

michael59

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So, my f'n left front hub started the howl of 'grum, grum, ohhhhhhhhh, grum, grum.' I rode that poop 25 miles home thinking it would be the trans-on a-mission. BUT, nope it was the left front of center hub; friken lefties!.,

anywhoos, they cell er sell only a complete hub assembly for $112 ant/at
No
Auto
Parts
Available.

No bearings just a complete hub. So they sell these timkin bearings in sets, only problem is a question of to freeze or not to freeze?

I-B-freezing the stud part of the hub in dryice with ace-tone and pressing out. remember folks: when freezing hard shit do not, and I mean-DO NOT- strike or impact close chrystal metals when frozen as it will shatter and well it shatters in pieces....kind of chips off in big pieces..
 

mtnman

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So, my f'n left front hub started the howl of 'grum, grum, ohhhhhhhhh, grum, grum.' I rode that poop 25 miles home thinking it would be the trans-on a-mission. BUT, nope it was the left front of center hub; friken lefties!.,

anywhoos, they cell er sell only a complete hub assembly for $112 ant/at
No
Auto
Parts
Available.

No bearings just a complete hub. So they sell these timkin bearings in sets, only problem is a question of to freeze or not to freeze?

I-B-freezing the stud part of the hub in dryice with ace-tone and pressing out. remember folks: when freezing hard shit do not, and I mean-DO NOT- strike or impact close chrystal metals when frozen as it will shatter and well it shatters in pieces....kind of chips off in big pieces..
Sometimes it just doesn't pay to be cheap...
 

Casey Jones

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Scotty's latest: with a 3 minute rant against wall street. :D

I listened to the first three minutes and then gave up.

It's good that Scotty is a mechanic. Like many, perhaps most, he doesn't understand stock trading and especially shorting stocks.

I don't, fully. But I see the vital role that short-sellers provide.

First, it's a brake on bubbles. When a stock is overvalued, and then starts its free-fall down...short-sellers ARE the market. They MUST buy when no one else will - to cover short sales. That slows the descent and lets logical, rational people get out of the stampede and examine all the facts.

Second, those are a thermometer, an outside reading on a business. When short-selling is abundant, as it was with TSLA, it's an indication that outside analysts see something that a Board of yes-men do not see or will not say.

When the shorts are squeezed out by cultist-investors, as with TSLA...you're going to see that stock just crash, crater and implode when the end comes. Because short-sellers have been driven out - by the utter madness of the Robbed-Hood app-users.
 

newmisty

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Installed new rear shocks in the truck yesterday. Not many swaps easier than that. Wasn't much harder than putting in a new battery. Water pump coming up soon.

Here's an ejukational vid

 

TAEZZAR

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Sure some funny look'n shocks !! :dduck::dduck::dduck::dduck:
 

newmisty

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newmisty

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DodgebyDave

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Mah stimulus dollars at werk. China Stonks paid a nice dividend!

The Patient

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The parts

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New upper and lower control arms, new rotors, new brakes...

Cost........0!
 

DodgebyDave

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Iffen you are doing brakes one of the first things you check is the pads.

In this case I knew I was going to need pads and rotors going in but it's a little worse than I thought

As you can see in the pic that the inside pad and the inside rotor surface are far more worn than the outer.

2 things really can cause this, a slider pin on the caliper frozen or a crappy pad slap brake job from Thieving Chain Shop

I checked to make sure the sliders are free, now onto the tear down!
20210403_141702.jpg
 

DodgebyDave

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Full frontal nudity!

20210403_170538.jpg


The junk pile grows!

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WQFTruckster

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Nice day for some work on the ‘hoe. About to roll over 173k miles. New front bearings and sway bar bushings and end links today.

C21BB87D-02D9-44A1-AB23-C6266D8487C5.jpeg


Replaced a trashed motor mount two weeks ago and did a transmission filter and flush.

169E3389-269B-4F83-8956-B0FF9E6E4410.jpeg

Looks like control arms and struts/shocks are up next. Hopefully that’ll do it for a couple more years.
 

Someone_else

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So I was driving home in my Saturn, with the window down, enjoying a nice day. Almost home, I roll up the window. It stuck about halfway up. "Well, I should wait until the car is parked before doing anything more." And... It's stuck. Completely. The glass itself has a little wiggle room, but the handle is determined not to budge at all.

Fast forward some, and I find that the "regulator" (the mechanism that raises and lowers the glass) is not stuck. It moves freely in a small range. The problem is with the crank gear and the steel half-circle with the teeth. With penetrating oil, patience, and sheer will, I managed to get the window all the way up. This is its new home. But that is not the point of this post.

I had removed the plastic barrier that went between the door frame and the door skin so that I could get to the mechanism. This was really nasty from two decades of use, and I was not going to try getting it back on.

So my plan was to use ordinary clear plastic poly film for the new barrier. Well, from past experience I know that poly film is not really happy to cooperate with ordinary adhesives. But I had an idea. I had some contact cement from doing a new countertop, and that DID seem to work with poly film. And that's what I did. I cut out a rough size, somewhat larger than the door area, and did the top first. Then I did the sides, trimming after each run, then the bottom.

To use contact cement, you apply some to each surface, wait 15 minutes, then push them together. It bonds instantly. For large projects, you might use a paint roller or brush, but I found out that the roller and brush were trash afterwards. Here, I used a piece of cardboard I tore from a box of cereal. It dripped a lot, but since it was outside on the dirt, no problem.

This contact cement is pretty good stuff! Their instructions made me think I might need several quarts to do 35-40 square feet of laminate, but I only used a quart or so. So I have plenty for other projects.
 

newmisty

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So I was driving home in my Saturn, with the window down, enjoying a nice day. Almost home, I roll up the window. It stuck about halfway up. "Well, I should wait until the car is parked before doing anything more." And... It's stuck. Completely. The glass itself has a little wiggle room, but the handle is determined not to budge at all.

Fast forward some, and I find that the "regulator" (the mechanism that raises and lowers the glass) is not stuck. It moves freely in a small range. The problem is with the crank gear and the steel half-circle with the teeth. With penetrating oil, patience, and sheer will, I managed to get the window all the way up. This is its new home. But that is not the point of this post.

I had removed the plastic barrier that went between the door frame and the door skin so that I could get to the mechanism. This was really nasty from two decades of use, and I was not going to try getting it back on.

So my plan was to use ordinary clear plastic poly film for the new barrier. Well, from past experience I know that poly film is not really happy to cooperate with ordinary adhesives. But I had an idea. I had some contact cement from doing a new countertop, and that DID seem to work with poly film. And that's what I did. I cut out a rough size, somewhat larger than the door area, and did the top first. Then I did the sides, trimming after each run, then the bottom.

To use contact cement, you apply some to each surface, wait 15 minutes, then push them together. It bonds instantly. For large projects, you might use a paint roller or brush, but I found out that the roller and brush were trash afterwards. Here, I used a piece of cardboard I tore from a box of cereal. It dripped a lot, but since it was outside on the dirt, no problem.

This contact cement is pretty good stuff! Their instructions made me think I might need several quarts to do 35-40 square feet of laminate, but I only used a quart or so. So I have plenty for other projects.
Good tip.
 

newmisty

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So I was driving home in my Saturn, with the window down, enjoying a nice day. Almost home, I roll up the window. It stuck about halfway up. "Well, I should wait until the car is parked before doing anything more." And... It's stuck. Completely. The glass itself has a little wiggle room, but the handle is determined not to budge at all.

Fast forward some, and I find that the "regulator" (the mechanism that raises and lowers the glass) is not stuck. It moves freely in a small range. The problem is with the crank gear and the steel half-circle with the teeth. With penetrating oil, patience, and sheer will, I managed to get the window all the way up. This is its new home. But that is not the point of this post.

I had removed the plastic barrier that went between the door frame and the door skin so that I could get to the mechanism. This was really nasty from two decades of use, and I was not going to try getting it back on.

So my plan was to use ordinary clear plastic poly film for the new barrier. Well, from past experience I know that poly film is not really happy to cooperate with ordinary adhesives. But I had an idea. I had some contact cement from doing a new countertop, and that DID seem to work with poly film. And that's what I did. I cut out a rough size, somewhat larger than the door area, and did the top first. Then I did the sides, trimming after each run, then the bottom.

To use contact cement, you apply some to each surface, wait 15 minutes, then push them together. It bonds instantly. For large projects, you might use a paint roller or brush, but I found out that the roller and brush were trash afterwards. Here, I used a piece of cardboard I tore from a box of cereal. It dripped a lot, but since it was outside on the dirt, no problem.

This contact cement is pretty good stuff! Their instructions made me think I might need several quarts to do 35-40 square feet of laminate, but I only used a quart or so. So I have plenty for other projects.
is the crank gear separate from the motor?

 

Someone_else

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is the crank gear separate from the motor?
There is no motor. There is the plastic handle that connects to a spline shaft. That shaft has a gear that engages with the half-disc wheel with teeth that rotates to raise and lower the glass.
 

newmisty

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There is no motor. There is the plastic handle that connects to a spline shaft. That shaft has a gear that engages with the half-disc wheel with teeth that rotates to raise and lower the glass.
Ahhhh, old school! Gotcha. What year's the Saturn?
 

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mtnman

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I've been around cars and trucks my whole life and this is the very first time I have heard of someone replacing that plastic behind the door panel. Do they even make replacement parts for a Saturn anymore?
 

DodgebyDave

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Today, boys and girls, we are going to discuss applied thermodynamics.

Can you say "smoke wrench"?

20210408_095831.jpg


As applied to

20210408_095758.jpg


We need to expand that pesky bearing race .020 so that it will slip right off without grinding or cutting on the crankshaft.

If the crank gets junked I will blame you
 

mtnman

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Today, boys and girls, we are going to discuss applied thermodynamics.

Can you say "smoke wrench"?

View attachment 207011

As applied to

View attachment 207012

We need to expand that pesky bearing race .020 so that it will slip right off without grinding or cutting on the crankshaft.

If the crank gets junked I will blame you
It can't be stuck if it's a liquid...
 

newmisty

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This man is a National Treasure
 

Someone_else

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So we have a 1990 Toyota pickup, and my wife thinks its time to change the plugs and wires. I don't remember if we (well... I) have ever changed them. After all those years, will they come out without a fight? Preparing for this, I bought a can of penetrating lubricant.

I looked at the various reviews of penetrating lubricants, and finally bought "B'laster 16-PB" for five and a half bucks. Over a few days, I sprayed the plugs (the bases, of course) with the stuff whenever I felt like it.

Today, I put my socket on the first plug and... It came out easily. It didn't really even feel like was tight. If it were not for the lubricant, I would have been concerned that it was not in tight enough. But the plug looked fine. No pitting, no fouling, just a light brown coating. Plugs 2 to 4 were similar, very easy to come out and they looked well-used but good.