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CANtainer Camp

ttazzman

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#81
Great setup..............looking at your pictures everything looks appropriate for straitening.......probably needs more heat and bigger spot... but as thin as that material is its getting scarey.........

to directly answer your questions...yes i think it was to cold...need to quench while still red....i assumed you quenched the outside.....

i think i would probably mechanically straiten it at this point....
 
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hoarder

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Great setup..............looking at your pictures everything looks appropriate for straitening.......probably needs more heat and bigger spot... but as thin as that material is its getting scarey.........

to directly answer your questions...yes i think it was to cold...need to quench while still red....i assumed you quenched the outside.....

i think i would probably mechanically straiten it at this point....
I think I'd leave it as is before wailing on it with a big hammer (that's my idea of mechanically straightening). I did heat and quench the outside.
 

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#84
I decided to cut another penetration in the wall for an RV-type slide-in propane water heater. These vent to the outside so no stack is required. It will be under the kitchen sink.
 

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#85
hoarder why could you not add a sliding glass door at the end with the two doors are but leave those doors and set inside the slider so you can have a view and air flow when you are there and be able to lock at up once you leave ... nice home hoarder . I have been looking at ways to build a home in a container also thanks for the ideas you added to my list
 
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#86
why would tar not work on the roof , just a thought . just asking because I was thinking, what if i need a a fast fix
 
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hoarder

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hoarder why could you not add a sliding glass door at the end with the two doors are but leave those doors and set inside the slider so you can have a view and air flow when you are there and be able to lock at up once you leave ... nice home hoarder . I have been looking at ways to build a home in a container also thanks for the ideas you added to my list
It would be nice to have the extra glass and ventilation, but I'm planning to house a generator, battery bank, three 100 pound LPG tanks and a window AC unit in that 17" space between the end doors and that inside wall. I'll barely have enough room for a 32" exterior door with glass.

why would tar not work on the roof , just a thought . just asking because I was thinking, what if i need a a fast fix
I had a container once that someone "fixed" that way. I hated it but not enough to try to remove the damn tar. In the summer it was slippery and stuck to my feet if I went up there.

hoarder will that hot water heater be able to give you hot water to shower with, are will you have something else for the bath room . here is a heater I was looking at for showers , would it work ... http://www.amazon.com/Rain-Man-L10-...7981118&sr=8-79&keywords=rv+hot+water+heaters
The 6 gallon RV water heater is enough for millions of RV'ers so it will be enough for me too. Won't be able to take a long shower. I currently have a LPG tankless water heater in my home. I don't like it. They are real finicky about water pressure. The gas vent would be more work to do on a container.
 

ttazzman

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FWIW.....H.E.R. polyurethane roof sealant was my product of choice to repair/refinish/coat metal roofs for years......comes in a flashing grade or spray grade........will dry to a rubber like flexible product....

another product we were starting to use/experiment with great sucess when i retired on "Green" "Leed" buildings to seal roof structures for growing grass etc on roofs was the same product used to coat pickup beds "rhino lining"

http://www.rhinolinings.com/

both products are far far superior in all ways except cost to any kind of "tar" product and information can be googled on both....the H.E.R. product is a Proven product and DIY user friendly
 
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hoarder

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Good idea, Taz. Much better solution than tar!
 
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gringott

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#91
Seen a jeep painted with that rino bedliner stuff that was mixed up for doing just that. Seemed to be a very tough coating, looked like it could take some abuse.
 

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#92
Seen a jeep painted with that rino bedliner stuff that was mixed up for doing just that. Seemed to be a very tough coating, looked like it could take some abuse.
I had a buddy who started a Rhino Lining operation 15 or so years ago. I had a KNAACK Job Box, one of the big ones with wheels. The lids always get scratched up, and start rusting, so I had him Rhino the top, and lip of it. It turned out awesome. I always preferred the Rhino lining to the other competitors, because it is a more rubberized, non slip surface. He did quite a few Jeeps and old Landcruisers, etc. as well.
 

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#93
Been having a spell of tolerable weather so I got some more work done. Inside is rough wired. I'm going to use wiremold boxes on the surface of the paneling.
I insulated the ceiling with two layers of 4" fiberglass, each layer perpendicular to the other. That made it easy to run the wires between layers without cutting. The walls are getting 1 1/2" EPS foam.
 

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hoarder

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As an afterthought, I welded a drip rail above the side door to keep snowmelt from dripping on the threshold and getting in under the door.

I found a couple 6" 12 volt fans cheap on ebay and made a wood adaptor to fit one for a range vent. Then I made a cover on the outside to keep the rain out. It's made out of an old busted shovel. The other one will become a bathroom fan.

Also I painted the wood floor with oil based primer. Shippers fumigate grain inside containers and it leaves a phosphide gas smell. The smell is gone since painting.
 

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Agavegirl1

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That is such a clever design! DBF is a millwright and can fabricate just about anything. I think I might need to show these to him.
 

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I got the tongue and groove "blue pine" on the ceiling. I put 2 coats of oil based satin polyurethane on first. This stuff is only around a buck a square foot or a thousand bucks to do all the walls and ceiling including varnish and 2" brads. Fairly easy to put up with a $20 Harbor Freight brad tacker. I had considered putting up 1/2" AC fir plywood, but as it turned out, this was cheaper and much better looking. It even gives the walls shear strength.
 

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ttazzman

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and adds insulation value .......really looks nice..........i guess you will add some framing to the end wall to support it?...i guess you could get fancy and run diagonal patterns on the wall pretty easily...
 

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and adds insulation value .......really looks nice..........i guess you will add some framing to the end wall to support it?...i guess you could get fancy and run diagonal patterns on the wall pretty easily...
I'll do the end walls horizontally, so no additional furring strips needed. I'll do the side walls vertically, less waste that way. I don't really care for the contemporary diagonal look, but that would be a good route if 12 footers were the only length to be had.
 

ttazzman

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8'ers?.........really like that clear poly look on that wood "blue pine" i havent seen anything with that much variegation available around here in a "car siding" product most of ours is pretty plain...1000% better looking than a plywood product...
 

hoarder

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8'ers?.........really like that clear poly look on that wood "blue pine" i havent seen anything with that much variegation available around here in a "car siding" product most of ours is pretty plain...1000% better looking than a plywood product...
I bought a banded unit of 256 8 footers from an independent Amish mill. The pine around here is Ponderosa. It's pretty wood and doesn't warp as bad as the Southern pines but doesn't have the strength either. It breaks easily. The blueing happens if you leave the logs laying around outdoors for a year or two, it's a fungus that's spread by pine beetles. Calling it "blue pine" is really a marketing ploy. The blue areas soak up a lot more varnish.
 
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I got the tongue and groove "blue pine" on the ceiling. I put 2 coats of oil based satin polyurethane on first. This stuff is only around a buck a square foot or a thousand bucks to do all the walls and ceiling including varnish and 2" brads. Fairly easy to put up with a $20 Harbor Freight brad tacker. I had considered putting up 1/2" AC fir plywood, but as it turned out, this was cheaper and much better looking. It even gives the walls shear strength.
This looks really amazing. I just read this thread from start to finish and it has really inspired me that building a basement under my current shed that i use as a computer workshop as something that would be very possible using one of these 40ft shipping containers. My main purpose is to put shelving units in the shipping container.
 

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This looks really amazing. I just read this thread from start to finish and it has really inspired me that building a basement under my current shed that i use as a computer workshop as something that would be very possible using one of these 40ft shipping containers. My main purpose is to put shelving units in the shipping container.
I don't believe in burying containers due to side load issues, but it has been done successfully.
For shelving, I like to use 1 1/2" x 1/8" angle iron to support 2x12's. The spans you can get are pretty good. In the rear end, I usually weld angle iron at each side wall and let the 2x12's span the entire 7 feet 8 inches. For side wall shelving I usually span about 5 feet. Going all the way across on the top shelf provides me with a place to store long items like ladders. After welding in the angle iron, I paint the entire inside with white oil based paint and then put the boards in when it dries.
 

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I don't believe in burying containers due to side load issues, but it has been done successfully.
For shelving, I like to use 1 1/2" x 1/8" angle iron to support 2x12's. The spans you can get are pretty good. In the rear end, I usually weld angle iron at each side wall and let the 2x12's span the entire 7 feet 8 inches. For side wall shelving I usually span about 5 feet. Going all the way across on the top shelf provides me with a place to store long items like ladders. After welding in the angle iron, I paint the entire inside with white oil based paint and then put the boards in when it dries.

I actually have 4Ft wide shelving made by Gondola that i purchased from a recent business that closed up. the reason why i purchased this shelving was i was planning on adding another shed for business use. So i would have one shed for a computer workshop and another shed for storage. But due to runoff taxes, and other restrictions It doesn't make since to add another barn and take up more space on my property. That the reason why i want to add something into the ground by either using a Shipping container or cinderblocks, and concrete. etc. My only thing is I need to make sure it is reinforced to support about 3ft of dirt that will be above the container. Im think that I will keep a 3 foot space on the side unless someone thinks that would be a bad idea. Any ideas or different contraction ideas would be awesome. And thanks for the continued thread updates hoarder I love the wood and stain you used
 

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I actually have 4Ft wide shelving made by Gondola that i purchased from a recent business that closed up. the reason why i purchased this shelving was i was planning on adding another shed for business use. So i would have one shed for a computer workshop and another shed for storage. But due to runoff taxes, and other restrictions It doesn't make since to add another barn and take up more space on my property. That the reason why i want to add something into the ground by either using a Shipping container or cinderblocks, and concrete. etc. My only thing is I need to make sure it is reinforced to support about 3ft of dirt that will be above the container. Im think that I will keep a 3 foot space on the side unless someone thinks that would be a bad idea. Any ideas or different contraction ideas would be awesome. And thanks for the continued thread updates hoarder I love the wood and stain you used
Not to sound dumb, but what are "Runoff Taxes"?
 
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Not to sound dumb, but what are "Runoff Taxes"?
I thought it was a national thing but i suppose not. Well here is Maryland at least we are taxed for any surface that does not allow rain to hit the ground. Such as roofs, porches, Decks, Pools, Driveways, etc. Its some new that started either 2014 or 2013. To be honest its quite silly.
 
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and Hoarder been doing some pricing and looks like one of these 40' containers range from 3,000-3,400 and Delivered they range from 3,400 - 4,000. Just curious how much did you pay for yours. and then how much did you put into it as far as materials, and improvements, etc. Thanks
 

ttazzman

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the county i live in doesnt even have building codes.....they have two gals that drive around looking for new structures to property tax........if someone proposed a "run off" tax there would be a lynching........i did purposefuly pick this county to live in just because it didnt have building codes and very low taxes
 

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That the reason why i want to add something into the ground by either using a Shipping container or cinderblocks, and concrete. etc. My only thing is I need to make sure it is reinforced to support about 3ft of dirt that will be above the container. Im think that I will keep a 3 foot space on the side unless someone thinks that would be a bad idea.
It's difficult to visualize your project without a drawing. Seems pretty major. In many states, portable buildings are exempt from property taxes, but then Maryland ain't America. :D
I love the wood and stain you used
I never stain interior woods. The oil based polyurethane gives it a slight yellow tint (that increases with exposure to sunlight) which is unintentional but I like it.

and Hoarder been doing some pricing and looks like one of these 40' containers range from 3,000-3,400 and Delivered they range from 3,400 - 4,000. Just curious how much did you pay for yours. and then how much did you put into it as far as materials, and improvements, etc. Thanks
As stated earlier, I paid $3800 delivered. Will give cost rundowns later. It will be several times that much, probably around $50 a square foot including solar system.
Buying a good used travel traler would be much cheaper, but then you would have a rubber roof, practically no insulation, nearly impossible to keep the water system from freezing in cold climates, a bear could walk through exterior walls without blinking and myraid other problems associated with trailers. Travel trailers are built light for transport, which is an advantage while transporting and disadvantage when stationary.
 

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I thought it was a national thing but i suppose not. Well here is Maryland at least we are taxed for any surface that does not allow rain to hit the ground. Such as roofs, porches, Decks, Pools, Driveways, etc. Its some new that started either 2014 or 2013. To be honest its quite silly.
Why do you stay in Maryland? Horrid gun laws and now you're taxed on the rain? Get out now before they tax that too!
 
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Why do you stay in Maryland? Horrid gun laws and now you're taxed on the rain? Get out now before they tax that too!
lol, Well…..Being that there is 3 Generation of our family under one roof it would be hard for us to all move and all of us to find jobs again. by then I'm sure other laws/taxs will be out for other states. I honestly love maryland i have been here 22 years in the same house, and other then little things here and there i love it. well i have a container company, and the www.atlassurvivalshelters.com team working with me, even though its a little much. I just want to make sure the shipping container can be reinforced properly with out spending a huge amount of time or a lot of money. Atlas Survival Shelters recommended me to look into a large Corrugated Pipe. So we are working on some plans and figures on that.

And horder a breakdown on your budget would be awesome. And I'm surprised you didn't used stain it sure looked like it. It really is amazing. If this wasn't for business, I would so put that on my ceiling. I will continue to follow your posts…. :)
 

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Our house is constructed from six (6) high cube containers.... the roof is 8" thick rebar reinforced 4500 psi concrete..... Below is an image of our teevee room & kitchen.
 

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BarnacleBob

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are you below ground Bob?
Earth bermed three sides and roof..... there are 10'+ earth berms surrounding three sides.... the south side faces, south.... the frigid north winds blow over and around us.... solar & wind powered, gen backup..... completely off-grid.... most people are amazed, as you cannot really tell its container construction. The front facade is constructed of 12" filled concrete blocks.... inside is framed with 2" x 6", R19 insulation, scabbed with 1/2" plywood which is covered w 1/2" drywall.... the exposed front has 1.5" foam insulation glued to container metal, a .5" air gap, 12" filled block, 1/2" insulation on exposed block covered with stucco.... the windows are double pain.... we can almost heat our home with a match/sarc.... we use less than 400 gal propane to cook, heat, and water heater per yr....

Note the thickness of the interior window framing & sills....
 

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hoarder

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Got most of the walls done. I've been insulating the floor with 1 1/2" EPS and slapping 3/4" Sturdifloor T&G sanded plywood on top.
 

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hoarder

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Earth bermed three sides and roof..... there are 10'+ earth berms surrounding three sides.... the south side faces, south........
Awesome home, Bob! There is much to be said for earth sheltered homes, especially on Southern exposures so you get enough winter sunshine. How many feet of dirt is there on top? It must have been tricky to backfill. I heard of a case where an equipment operator backfilled an earth sheltered home and busted the concrete roof.
I like the rockwork on the fireplace. Do you use wood heat much?
 

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Awesome home, Bob! There is much to be said for earth sheltered homes, especially on Southern exposures so you get enough winter sunshine. How many feet of dirt is there on top? It must have been tricky to backfill. I heard of a case where an equipment operator backfilled an earth sheltered home and busted the concrete roof.
I like the rockwork on the fireplace. Do you use wood heat much?
Thanx..... Indeed backfilling against the containers DID create problems....as the backfill did push and stretched the corrugated metal, which then pushed my framing out of square.... if I was going to backfill a container again I would weld 2" x 2" rectangular tubing about every 16" /24" to prevent the dirt from pushing inwards on the metal. The problems did not occur immediatly, but after several rains.... the first backfill operation was to a height of about 5', it was allowed to settle with rain for 3 - 4 months before the second layer was added.... the problems appeared shortly thereafter... once it fully settled I framed a new wall and that fixed the issue....

The home uses six 40' high cubes in 3 modules of two pushed together.. 2 modules are length wise E to W, while one module is N to S.... the E/W modules are divided by a 11" gap that is rebar reinforced and filled with 4500 psi concrete to support the 240,000# concrete roof.... another "gap" of 8" was created & filled with concrete between the E/W & N/S containers.... the 8" concrete roof will receive a 16" organic covering this spring.... I used a cold fiber tar application & roof felt after a concrete sealer was applied....there is 2" styrofoam insulation covering the roof..... The roof concrete was meticulously cared for in a 3 month curing process.... water, plastic & straw was used to keep the roof moisturized for 3 months.... it was allowed to stand for one month after the moisture was removed, the concrete was still offgassing 4 months after it was poured..... I contacted the concrete company chemist and together after many conversations & considerations created a custom blend for the roof application.... he guaranteed 4500 psi, but said it was prolly 5500+.... and then advised me on the curing technique that would add even more strength to the mix....

The organic roof cover has been slow in coming as I wanted everything to settle down and any problems to occur prior to adding the roof cover..... the roof has 5/8 grade 60 rebar that is laid in a 6" x 6" rectangular pattern throughout..... its a high strength hoss built to highway bridge design & specs.

We have done most of the construction ourselves, excepting laying the block & pouring the roof.... it was damned scarey cutting the last few inches of a 40' container wall.... we took out the sides in one 40' piece.

(note the width between the container modules / 11" poured wall)
 

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hoarder

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The home uses six 40' high cubes in 3 modules of two pushed together.. 2 modules are length wise E to W, while one module is N to S....
Sounds like a "T" floorplan with only one end of the N-S module at the Southern exposure.
Number 5 rebar at 6 inch grid, holy cow! Engineers love overkill. I think the concrete is plenty strong as long as the containers are on undisturned ground, thus preventing any one module from moving and creating a hinge point on the concrete.

I would make sure none of the organic fill touches the chimney, as it could smoulder unnoticed for a long time if ever you have a chimney fire. Also might put some clay on top of it around the chimney in case embers fall out. The 16" fill should increase the R value of the package significantly without adding weight.