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Farm Tractor thread

ttazzman

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Lil green paint would fix that oil spot underneath it :) ..........great looking tractor for its age
 

pitw

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The oil spot came from the 65 we were working on prior to putting this one on the deck.
 

mtnman

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Nice, Strong and dependable. I'm sure you'll be happy!
 

pitw

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Had the afternoon to go up North 30 miles to a small town sports day. They have a tractor pull every year for the locals and folks I can tell you if you learn to listen to these folk, you may learn something. Hard to beat the sound of these old girls doing their job and the little JD E






They even had some junk there.



Had 3 pieces of home made pie the old girls made at home and were selling for $2 a slice, so I paid them $6.6666 a piece and told them to raise their prices. Watched a ball game and talked until I got dry tongue.

Got home so as I could go to a party with the wife which to my total unease had started at noon and I got home at 5. She had left to go pick strawberrys at a neighbors who was gone to the same sports day. She picked


in 25 minutes and made less than half into jam by 7.:mining:


The lad picked out a spider from the pails full.


I snuck out at 6 to play with an old 22 and even older scope. Came home to find mama skunk moving towards the yard from the North. With at least 9 little ones in tow.
I opened up with the old semi in flock shoot mode and got 4 little ones dead and I don't know about wounded as they went into the long grass and our thick caraganas. Came to the house for the camera and by the time I got back, 2 of the little carcass's were gone. I waited 20 yards away and got another little one and then I managed to hit mama. Wife said while she was picking stawberry's at the neighbors he had to go out and flock shoot at a herd the same size.
 

ttazzman

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"They even had some junk there." :belly laugh:


round here in a skunk situation like yours we try to get momma ...the lil ones rarely can survive without help.......every year we get some that come in and they always use a pipe culvert i have rigged up plugs for the culvert so i just catch them comeing or going ....plug the ends and flood it.....saves on the smell....works like a charm
 

pitw

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I know not why there are so many this year. I shot 4 up North as they were headed to a customers yard. I like the culvert idea but water for drowning would be an issue. The smell is good in small doses.
Kinda figured I had you with the junk.:belly laugh:
 

Howdy

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Fourth picture, was that a 371 Detroit in that Massey? First I ever saw a Detroit in an old farm tractor. Was it retrofit?
 

pitw

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pitw

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The fun part of these old tractor pulls is how the guys do retrofits and even cheat to win. I enjoy listening to the old boys talk about how to get an advantage with height/weight/or whatever to win just bragging rights.
 

pitw

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Here is a pic of our neighbors tractor/baler combo. My lad was learning to bale and actually got the last 146 bales made without rain on them. There is very few good bales up here due to rain and the neighbor was happy he hired Bobby to bale while he went to a wedding as we got an inch that night.
 

ttazzman

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that setup there $$$$ but it will sure put up a hay field in a hurry .......just curious what it cost you a bale to have them custom rolled up for you?.........last i checked it was $10-15 here
 

pitw

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Got my new[to me] 165 Massey home yesterday.


Got it hooked up the pull type mower.
Didn't like a noise in the transmission when I was baling so sold this tractor for $2,500 more than I paid for it and got a seasons work outta it.
 

stonedywankanobe

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I'm in the market for a small tractor. I've got a 3 acre lot that has killed 2 johndeere riding mowers in 6 years.
I was thinking about a big zero turn but 5 grand for a one trick pony has me considering other options.
Looking on craigslist I've seen several of the old ford 8 and 9n gas burners for 1500 some of which include a finish mower. I'm now thinking it's the way to go as tiller implements brush hogs and others can be had for cheaper on there and would give me the versatility to do some driveway grading
and garden work.
Anyone have experience with these old basturds?
 

mtnman

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I'm in the market for a small tractor. I've got a 3 acre lot that has killed 2 johndeere riding mowers in 6 years.
I was thinking about a big zero turn but 5 grand for a one trick pony has me considering other options.
Looking on craigslist I've seen several of the old ford 8 and 9n gas burners for 1500 some of which include a finish mower. I'm now thinking it's the way to go as tiller implements brush hogs and others can be had for cheaper on there and would give me the versatility to do some driveway grading
and garden work.
Anyone have experience with these old basturds?
Great old tractors , stay with the 8N as they are newer and really easy to get parts for. Lots of them are coming on the market because all the old guys that collect and restore them are dying. Around 2500 gets a nicely restored 8N.
 

mtnman

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If you get an 8n you might as well drag 3-4 more onto the place, for parts. Ive seen non-running tractors go for a few hundred frn many times.
There's a name for that sickness, It's called Rustosis, and there's no cure...
 

coopersmith

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Theres a cure for it, fer sure, in my dry country its bragging it into the roundtop..........;).....no rustosis
 

mtnman

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Theres a cure for it, fer sure, in my dry country its bragging it into the roundtop..........;).....no rustosis
That just treats the symptom. You'll be back at hunting rust as soon as the show's over.
 

glockngold

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That was good.
Gadsden flag on the combine & dog keeping up with machinery.
 

Argent Dragon

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Got my new[to me] 165 Massey home yesterday................Got it hooked up the pull type mower.
I'm thinking it's the Perkins 4-cyl diesel ?
I have a MF-175 (circa 1968) and it's my MAIN workhorse for nearly everything and pulls a 5-ft. bush-hog. It's very good on fuel and is very strong (63-hp).

CONGRATS on your purchase.
 

michael59

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K, boys listen up. this deals with a F2L 912. could be anything Duetz but this here is the voice of GOD. and, yet you might want to dam it but you can only do so after working on one of these things. No REALLY....

I was told...*shit wish I tapped all my calls*; I was told "Don't pay any attention to the book" and, haha, and, ahah,,....shithahahah and then I said "No wonder you guys lost the war."

this is a shit storm of german engineering and stupability. klasick case of build it and they will cum/come or watch pornos. I'm telling you that nothing lines up according to the book; at least the one I have. So's I got bumped around and was given a number of MEMO. Shure as shit I called. And, I swear the guy paged through his book and told me I could use the cam that is rated at 1800rpm in a or with a 2150 bohcs (?) pump. Sure as poop I called the high performance guy that I know and he told me that high end rpm/idol was controlled by the pump. So being the butt that I am I pulled the cams and they are so very different. I measured them in my cave man ways and darn these things have thistles in the wrong places.

SO, I am here to tell you that when dealing with a duetz just use the book for knowing the +'s and -'s and then just know the suck squeeze bang blow on your own.
 

michael59

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I should delete post number 398 but it is useful to getting a tractor out of the field. I Rebuilt/in housed a 137MF. As I had to remove the fuel tank I emptied it out and inspected it and I was clean, all the fuel lines were clean, in fact every thing was dandy. As I used it that year for the garden I noticed that there was a brown sludge showing up where the fuel dripped. So I just fixed the leaks as they appeared and kept on going. I missed an important sign of fuel converting to sludge and it was the brown lackery substance in the block of the motor. What I found two years later was a mess, the whole fuel system had gelled up with sludge. Where this came from I do not know but it was bad.

First of all every one should use a biocide in their fuel to keep the fungus from among us, period. Next after tank was drained it was plugged off with the fuel gauge removed and a bottle of dry sodium hydroxide poured in and filled with water. This only works on steel tanks, do not do this on aluminum. With aluminum you just use acetone and gas. Let tank sit for 2 to 3 days then empty out and pressure wash as best you can. Now to neutralize the sodium dump in a jug of vinegar and let sit for a day or two. I kept agitating the tank a few times a day. Drain and pressure wash out residual crap that vinegar will loosen up.

While all this is going on time and pull injection pump. Drain pump and place in 5 gal bucket if it will fit and cover with acetone. [Edit: do not use lye/sodium hydroxide on the injection pump. this pump will either come clean or have to be sent in] One can put injector lines in acetone but the acetone will leave a residual so I cleaned them with a bicycle brake cable. I stripped off the plastic and unfurled the outer cable guard and separated it from the inward plastic coated wire. I had a friend hold on one end of the outer guard and I on the other and we pulled this as tight as we could making it in to a sudo screw which could be cut into lengths/ some long some short. Now with the inard wire I stripped off the plastic and unfurled 3 to 4 strands and un wrapped them.

Now to fun part: Start digging out the goop. I used acetone, brake clean and gas. Once I got which ever tools I had made through a fuel line or injection line I kept pulling tool back and forth while using afore said solvents till they came clean.

Four days it took me to clean the whole fuel system. I kind of figure that my rebuild failed because fuel was not getting delivered in proper amounts to all three cylinders thus making one work harder than the other two and thus it spun a bearing.

Now when it comes to aluminum or brass/copper one cannot use lye/sodium hydroxide one has to use acetone and let set. In one aluminum tank we dumped 3 gallons of acetone and at $20 per gallon and only getting to use it once we considered that an expensive fix. We flushed out the aluminum tank with gasoline after pressure washing it also.
 

brosil

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Holt 120 at the Best of the West
Galynn Ferris


Published on Jul 2, 2017
The Holt 120 is an extremely rare tractor. Most were manufactured for service in WWI. It is believed only three remain in the North America and all three were present at the ACMOC National Show.
That looks like what I saw at the National Threshers Convention. It was marked Caterpillar as well.
 

Argent Dragon

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*UPDATE*

I've sold my 5-Ac Farm property and have consolidated my efforts to my 1-Acre homestead.
This means, yes, my BIG tractors have been sold too. cry:

BUT........ I still have my 4WD Kubota B8200. I'm thinking of getting a newer tractor in addition around 30-HP.
The Kubota is only 19-hp with a 16-hp rating for the PTO (and it's live).

My requirements for the New tractor is a front loader and an independent rear PTO (20-HP minimum output for a 10kw generator).

So far, I've narrowed my selection down to the 3032E / 3038E John Deere series. My local dealer has package specials for 10% down with 0% interest for 84 months. I was thinking of straight up Ca$h on a used model, but this sounds too good to pass on.

I did recently read a review on the 3033R versus the 3032E and the lift capabilities are better for the R series. :don't know:
The 'E" series is the only one offered for the 'special' and I'm thinking it's still enough to handle my small tasks.

Thoughts ? Experience ? Suggestions ?
 

Jarrod32

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I looked into the same thing when I bought my 1025r (vs the 1023e). John Deere's system has the "e" series as kind of the base model, and the "r" has additional features (thta may or may not be important). In my case, it was a more comfortable seat, a 12v outlet in the control station, extra front lights...things like that. The "e" series are just as functional, but the "r" series tend of have more creature comfort type features. That was four years ago, so it may have changed a bit, but that was my experience.
 

ttazzman

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how much difference in price is the R.........in JD world ...R is mercedes.....M is cadillac......E is chevy.......

usually as you move up you get more creature comforts and more capabilities such as ..hydraulic capaciy...electronics...machine weight...etc....i dont know anything about the 3000 series...but for example in a 6000 series e vs m vs r = base price vs 50% more vs 100% more in price

Es were made to compete with "off shore" tractors.....and 3000 series tractors used to be Yanmar to JD specs...

I really like my JD4500(yanmar) (~40hp) its my fav tractor for just about anything its large enough or almost large enough to do in my mind it is the perfect size for a small catch all tractor.....probably to large for a 1acre world...

usually the problem with smaller tractors is hydraulics (loader) are much stronger than the tractor weight....so consider all the ballast you can get.....fluid filled tires...wheel weights...heavy rear implement etc.....if you plan on a mid-mower be sure its capable and if possible get one rear remote valve...if your planning on running a genny be sure it has a good governer setup to hold pto speed if you walk away and loads change.

Shuttle shift or Hystat and 4wd are MUST haves.....and consider tire resistance to puncture if you have tire options

I am personally in the used tractor market right now (gotta spend some $ before year end for taxes) ...but im looking at the 60hp and 100hp ranges
 
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Argent Dragon

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Well, now I'm stumped...... was watching some YouTube reviews on the 3032E, etc. and up popped an L-Series Kubota comparison.

Now the Kubota seems stronger than the JD 3-series and that's enough to sway me to the land of Orange.
I already have a B8200 and so as for reliability and performance, for an old dawg it's as tough as they come.

Anyone have any experience with the Kubota L-series ?
 

Jarrod32

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I'm a Deere guy, but nothing bad to say about Kubota. They make a solid product. If you are drifting away from Deere, take a look at the LS tractors. You tend to get a bit more tractor for the dollar with the off-brands...
 

ttazzman

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i cant speak to Kubotas...they have a decent reputation.....i dont know 3000jds vs L kubbies specificly ...here are a few things i would suggest..

Jarrod is spot on on the things he is saying

you do want good dealer support if your buying new so pick a good close dealer ...dealer reputation and support is important no matter what the brand if you need help

no matter who you go with GO DRIVE THEM ......look for control locations and convenience ...for example you dont want a loader joystick that is hard to reach and maneuver ...or pto or shift levers that require you to twist to operate...if your going with Hystat 2 separate pedals are MUCH better than a single rocker pedal.....if your going with a reverser make sure its a POWER reverser meaning you can shift F-N-R without clutching at all....anything else SUX ....syncro-in range on the move transmissions are the way to go.....huge differences in seat suspensions.....big differences in power engagement .....etc...........point is go test drive them in the manner in which you intend to use them ....ask about maintenance schedules...and things like cable controls that require regular adjustment <<i hate those

we have it nice here we have a farm show each year and every brand of tractor is there and you can look them over closely side by side unmolested

both JD and K are considered premium and will have good resale values....goes down from there.....as Jarrod said it is something to consider in the "off brands" ...mahindra and LS ...both are good tractors you will get more for your money....and loooooong warrentys but resale suffers
 

Argent Dragon

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Dealerships close by include JD, Kubota, and Mahindra. There's also a Kioti dealer but it's a little further out.

I'll check on these tractors in person and test them out. Many thanks for all your input @ttazzman @Jarrod32 :2 thumbs up:
 

Jarrod32

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i cant speak to Kubotas...they have a decent reputation.....i dont know 3000jds vs L kubbies specificly ...here are a few things i would suggest..

Jarrod is spot on on the things he is saying

you do want good dealer support if your buying new so pick a good close dealer ...dealer reputation and support is important no matter what the brand if you need help

no matter who you go with GO DRIVE THEM ......look for control locations and convenience ...for example you dont want a loader joystick that is hard to reach and maneuver ...or pto or shift levers that require you to twist to operate...if your going with Hystat 2 separate pedals are MUCH better than a single rocker pedal.....if your going with a reverser make sure its a POWER reverser meaning you can shift F-N-R without clutching at all....anything else SUX ....syncro-in range on the move transmissions are the way to go.....huge differences in seat suspensions.....big differences in power engagement .....etc...........point is go test drive them in the manner in which you intend to use them ....ask about maintenance schedules...and things like cable controls that require regular adjustment <<i hate those

we have it nice here we have a farm show each year and every brand of tractor is there and you can look them over closely side by side unmolested

both JD and K are considered premium and will have good resale values....goes down from there.....as Jarrod said it is something to consider in the "off brands" ...mahindra and LS ...both are good tractors you will get more for your money....and loooooong warrentys but resale suffers
This is all truth, and ttazzman is right when he says to go drive them. You need one that you are comfortable driving. And the fact that the Deere had the two pedals for the hydrostatic drive is one of the big deals that tilted me to the Deere over the LS and Kubota...they both had the rocker pedal which would drive me nuts. However, that is personal preference. I know a lot of guys greatly prefer the rocker pedal.

I also like the way the loader is so easy to mount/dismount from the Deere. That, and the fact that the Deere dealer is less than a half mile around the corner from my place. Other dealers are at least 30-35 miles away. Like ttazzman said, dealer support is a HUGE deal. Shop around. Don't be in a hurry. And many dealers will let you use a demo tractor before buying.
 

Usury

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Don’t the new diesel tractors require those BS DEF systems mandated by EPA? If so that might be enough to sway me to buy used.

Just sayin.....