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Farm Tractor thread

ttazzman

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FWIW - I had to learn quickly to move s-s-l-l-o-o-o-w-w-w .......that tiller started rocking a bit after sliding off the top of that platform. Needless to say it leaded out gear oil down the backside ~ kinda messy but I managed.
nothing like starting out on some precise loader work with huge cost consequences if you messed it up :) might as well run it through some brush right off and scratch it up save you some cussing from when you do........i would be curious as to how you like the controls after some ussage esp the rocker hst..........i bet this is a huge step up from your past tractors......is the rear weighted at all beyond the cutter it had on the rear?
 
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newmisty

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1538717384806.png
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newmisty

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Argent Dragon

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........i would be curious as to how you like the controls after some ussage esp the rocker hst..........i bet this is a huge step up from your past tractors......is the rear weighted at all beyond the cutter it had on the rear?
1.) Rocker pedal on HST >> It works fantastic. I can't explain how easy it is to go forward, turn, back up, turn and spin it around to cover tight areas like a pro. My 'ole International has Hydrostatic but it was a 'Z' lever up on the left. When adjusting speeds you only have one had on the steering. With a foot pedal I can keep both hand on steering or use a free hand as a brace so I can look over my shoulder in maneuvering.

2.) Rear weights >> The only other weight back there was the quick attach in addition to my cutter. However, it didn't budge during my lifting. The only thing I saw visually was a slight flex on the loader (which may actually have been the front tire give) and the swing of the implement until it settled down.

3.) The wife luvs it because operation is relatively quiet. I find the HST a bit noisy when moving around but apparently only the operator hears it.

4.) I've also run it a tad at night and the dash lights, running lights, and headlights are a dream as it should be on a new machine.

5.) Tires - I'm very pleased with the R4 tires. They do really well on my terrain and only tear up grass on extremely sharp turns. I also think they look good too.
 

ttazzman

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.usually these smaller tractors have more lift power in the loader than weight in the tractor to handle it especially as the load gets more elevated so be prepaired to hook a heavy implement on back or add weights if you do any heavy lifting at above hood height on side slopes etc........need that free hand for loader work for sure :)
 

ttazzman

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Well I just ordered a 'Tractor House'........ it's a 24' x 40' Metal building with 10'x9' overhead doors at each gable end.
1 entry door with 2 windows on a side and 3 windows on the opposite side. It's 10'-0" at the eaves with a 13'-9" ridge.
Pewter Gray w/ White Trim.

It's raining outside but it might as well be 'snow' because it feels like Christmas !!!!

WEllllllllllllllll....did you get your "HE" shed...LOL
 

Argent Dragon

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WEllllllllllllllll....did you get your "HE" shed...LOL
I have to get the permit and the slab poured first...... but I do have a deposit on the metal building.
 

Argent Dragon

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Here's one of the many tasks I needed done....... It may not look like much but my drainage ditches needed lots of help.

KD_01-before.jpg

Before - lots of weeds in the 'waterway'.....

KD_02-after.jpg


Now it'll drain much better...... the mud 'rut' was unintentional but at least 4WD helped me from getting 'stuck'.
 

ttazzman

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curious.....does your new tractor have a power divider lock? .....some small do ...some dont....i actually do use mine occasionally ....its one of those options that you dont need often but when you do its a life saver...


on the "he" shed ...i am lucky i live in a "free" county (no permits needed) :)
 

Argent Dragon

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curious.....does your new tractor have a power divider lock? .....some small do ...some dont....i actually do use mine occasionally ....its one of those options that you dont need often but when you do its a life saver...
I'm not sure, unless you mean a differential lock ? .......normally it's limited slip until you 'lock' the diff. (like a detroit locker on 4x4 vehicles).
 

ttazzman

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I'm not sure, unless you mean a differential lock ? .......normally it's limited slip until you 'lock' the diff. (like a detroit locker on 4x4 vehicles).
yes i meant Differential lock........my old truck driving days tainted my mind back in the 70s trucks had something similar and they were called a power divider lock
 

ttazzman

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I'm not sure, unless you mean a differential lock ? .......normally it's limited slip until you 'lock' the diff. (like a detroit locker on 4x4 vehicles).
Got a question....you bought the wood chipper.....my Smaller JD tractor has a PTO cut-off if there is no operator in the seat so if i ran a PTO unit like a chipper or genset i would have to hotwire the seat switch..the bigger JD tractors do not have that issue..........How is your Kubota set-up ..will you have to "hot wire" the seat switch to use the chipper??
 

Jarrod32

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Got a question....you bought the wood chipper.....my Smaller JD tractor has a PTO cut-off if there is no operator in the seat so if i ran a PTO unit like a chipper or genset i would have to hotwire the seat switch..the bigger JD tractors do not have that issue..........How is your Kubota set-up ..will you have to "hot wire" the seat switch to use the chipper??
I have a Deere 1025r, and there is a way to set it so that you can run the PTO without an operator on the seat. I need to look it up...
 

Jarrod32

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.usually these smaller tractors have more lift power in the loader than weight in the tractor to handle it especially as the load gets more elevated so be prepaired to hook a heavy implement on back or add weights if you do any heavy lifting at above hood height on side slopes etc........need that free hand for loader work for sure :)
Yes. Need to make sure you have adequate ballast when lifting much weight at all with the loader. Extremely important for safety and to prevent damage to the tractor. A ballast box is probably the best...I have a weight bracket for suitcase weights that usually provides adequate ballast.

1540071067010.png
 

Jarrod32

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Got a question....you bought the wood chipper.....my Smaller JD tractor has a PTO cut-off if there is no operator in the seat so if i ran a PTO unit like a chipper or genset i would have to hotwire the seat switch..the bigger JD tractors do not have that issue..........How is your Kubota set-up ..will you have to "hot wire" the seat switch to use the chipper??
For the JD 1025r...and it needs to be done in this specific order or it won't work. It needs to be mentioned that between steps one and two you need to have the range lever in gear. Then lock the park brake, then move the range lever to N. This is from the operator's manual:

Using Rear Power-Take-Off (PTO)—Operator off Seat

1.Sit on operator seat,


2.Lock the park brake.


3.Move the 2-speed range lever to the N position.


4.NOTE: The starter will not crank if the PTO/RIO switch knob is in any engaged/on position.

Start the engine.


5.Set engine speed to 1500 rpm or less.


6.Move the PTO control lever to Rear PTO only.


7.Exit seat for rear PTO operation without operator on seat..


8.Pull PTO switch knob up to the engaged/on position.


9.Adjust the hand throttle lever forward to the desired speed for the implement used.
 

Varmint Hunter

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I have a Deere 1025r, and there is a way to set it so that you can run the PTO without an operator on the seat. I need to look it up...
On the Kubotas all you have to do is tilt the seat forward towards the steering wheel. This engages a switch which allows PTO operation with no one on the seat. I think the Deeres are the same.
 

ttazzman

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When in doubt read the manual.......... :) .....read mine..... engaging the parking brake is the key on mine.... i had never read that part of my manual ...LOL ....
 

Argent Dragon

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On the Kubotas all you have to do is tilt the seat forward towards the steering wheel. This engages a switch which allows PTO operation with no one on the seat. I think the Deeres are the same.
Yep, that's pretty much it.......

Stationary_PTO.JPG
 

michael59

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So ok now, The last I talked about juicing this D4 was sept24 or so and I think that it has been 2 months after I pulled the head and juiced it. Every cylinder had rust and it takes just a little under one gallon of white vinegar to load all the holes up. I am working on the third vinegar change and I am glad to say that almost all the rust is out. I took off the side panels and got a pipe wrench on the front crank pully and dam-if the level of the fluid din't flex with me pulling on the cheater bar and yes I broke on pipe wrench already trying to force it.

So It's looking good with these night time freezing temp's. I took a brillow pad because I forgot where I laid the stainless steel wool but the rust is almost out. There is no top ridge to speak of and the vinegar just sits there working. So about another two weeks and I'll clean it up reinstall the head water that pup up and use the pony motor to turn it if the pipe wrench don't work.
 

ttazzman

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Yep, that's pretty much it.......

SO.........a followup review on the kubbie????................the new to me JD has a few things i dislike mostly to do with the loader logistics not fitting my personal preferences but i have 3 other loader machines that do fit me so its not a big deal since i bought it primarily for the climate controlled cab and pto hp for mowing hay with a moco....the compact open station tractor is still my go to every day tractor
 

Argent Dragon

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TILLED-SOIL.jpg


Tilled some dirt just after Thanksgiving - 6 rows about 90-feet long in 20 minutes !!!

It's really nice to have new equipment and outside of some little tugs, everything churned like butter.
 

Argent Dragon

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TILLER-DIRT.jpg


Fluffy dirt too...... only a couple of stones were turned up but no bent blades.
 

ttazzman

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View attachment 117968

Tilled some dirt just after Thanksgiving - 6 rows about 90-feet long in 20 minutes !!!

It's really nice to have new equipment and outside of some little tugs, everything churned like butter.
wow!! looks like it did a heck of a job and quick too........thats impressive.....would have took a week and new teeth and lotta rock picking in my neck of the woods
 

michael59

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In case you all are wondering here is a pik, I din't snap one after I used compressed air to suck the shit out of the bores but will do one after I go to put it back together.

Oh and I left these channel locks out that got rained on and rusted so I threw them into a pan that has the rockers (which were all rusted up) and pulled them out after 5 days and the rust wiped right off so I took a blow nozzle and blew the rest off. Let them set on a fork lift and they started to rust again so I shot them down with WD40and no rust has come back......so, I think if you take them adjustable nut stripping things aka crescent wrenches that are all rusted up and soak them in the vinegar you will have at the end a functional nut stripping wrench, just say'n.
 

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ttazzman

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In case you all are wondering here is a pik, I din't snap one after I used compressed air to suck the shit out of the bores but will do one after I go to put it back together.

Oh and I left these channel locks out that got rained on and rusted so I threw them into a pan that has the rockers (which were all rusted up) and pulled them out after 5 days and the rust wiped right off so I took a blow nozzle and blew the rest off. Let them set on a fork lift and they started to rust again so I shot them down with WD40and no rust has come back......so, I think if you take them adjustable nut stripping things aka crescent wrenches that are all rusted up and soak them in the vinegar you will have at the end a functional nut stripping wrench, just say'n.
those nut strippin wrenches you speak of ......are a farmers best friend.......the last set of those wrenches i bought seem to work great on SAE sizes......but for some reason strip every metric i use them on.......so i am wondering if you have the right type cresent wrench.....metric or sae???......... :) :)
 

michael59

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those nut strippin wrenches you speak of ......are a farmers best friend.......the last set of those wrenches i bought seem to work great on SAE sizes......but for some reason strip every metric i use them on.......so i am wondering if you have the right type cresent wrench.....metric or sae???......... :) :)
jajaja opsie hahaha...hey hand me that adjustable metric wrench.....ahahah. yeah the boys only fell for it once, it's the little pleasures in life.
 

Argent Dragon

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Got covered up during the holidays........ Here's some construction photos of my Ag Barn.

Foundation-1.jpg


Foundation-2.jpg
 

Argent Dragon

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Metal Framing...... put up on the 8th day of concrete curing for the foundation.

Framing-1.jpg


Framing-2.jpg
 

pitw

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What critter ya keeping in there? It sure as [L] should be comfy.
 

ttazzman

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What critter ya keeping in there? It sure as [L] should be comfy.
you can sure tell from the construction methods he is in a NO frozen ground ...no snow load part of the country (glad to see the condensation control under roof).....one hell of a tractor shed for sure though beats the heck outa what my tractors get... :)
 
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ttaz

speaking of snow load and cold,

when I built my 40x60, I did run as AD did, 1/2 rebar both directions tied rather than wwm. Had a 16x16 perimeter floating slab, with further enlargements for where the columns each 20' were.

under the slab, 2" foam as when completed would be a heated shop.

5" 4000# poured real late in the year, so once set, covered with poly and then a foot of straw over the top and let it sit for a few months that way while I was erecting the metal structure.

after 20 years, not a single crack in the thing. That really worked well.

AD nailed it with that
 

ttazzman

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ttaz

speaking of snow load and cold,

when I built my 40x60, I did run as AD did, 1/2 rebar both directions tied rather than wwm. Had a 16x16 perimeter floating slab, with further enlargements for where the columns each 20' were.

under the slab, 2" foam as when completed would be a heated shop.

5" 4000# poured real late in the year, so once set, covered with poly and then a foot of straw over the top and let it sit for a few months that way while I was erecting the metal structure.

after 20 years, not a single crack in the thing. That really worked well.

AD nailed it with that
Yes he did.....in my opinion his type construction is excellent for his area of the country......

if you do that style in our area (and some do) you have to allow for the slab to "frost heave" .....what usually happens is one area on the perimeter of the building usually due to the excavation the soil will be more saturated with moisture and when winter freeze hits the ground expands and contracts on a variable basis on freeze thaw cycles ...i have seen soils cycle as much as 3-4" in high moisture areas and common to see 2" ......code governed construction in our area requires footings and water lines at least 24" in depth

...looking at pic of his construction it looks ...to be warm weather ...high wind....construction......only thing i would have suggested for his building would have been to put in a pipe under the slab to middle of floor for a possible future drain if he needs it for washing and waxing his new tractor :)
 

Scorpio

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here you can provide frost protection to that slab by insulating the perimeter,

down 24" then at 45 degree angle off that

you are correct in that you must start with good equal base, then protect it from frost
there are a few ways you can do it.
around here, the frost depth allowance is 48"
 

mtnman

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24" frost, 48" FROST???? NO F*CKIN' WAY!!! Too Damn COLD!!!
 

michael59

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24" frost, 48" FROST???? NO F*CKIN' WAY!!! Too Damn COLD!!!
Try six foot. and, yes the hyrant froze in the winter of 40 below....seems to me the previous year was the same.
I was digging and heating, digging and heating...Goldie told me "You'll never get it, just wait a few weeks and it will thaw."

I packed a lot of water till it thawed.....
 

mtnman

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Try six foot. and, yes the hyrant froze in the winter of 40 below....seems to me the previous year was the same.
I was digging and heating, digging and heating...Goldie told me "You'll never get it, just wait a few weeks and it will thaw."

I packed a lot of water till it thawed.....
NO, flat out NO! Not going to happen Not nada no way! my southern butt would never thaw!