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Just Order a Ruger Mini 14 Ranch

<===Foolsgold

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#1
Living in the great state of NY :puke: my options are limited. I feel fortunate to have located one, it comes with a blued barrel and wooden stock.

The arsenal is growing.
 

Argent Dragon

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#2
This thread is useless without PICS........:p
 

<===Foolsgold

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#3
Just ordered it brother AD, have patience, this weekend the pictures will be posted right here!!!
 

Argent Dragon

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Just ordered it brother AD, have patience, this weekend the pictures will be posted right here!!!
Got it........and congrats on your purchase :bear_thumb:
 

Silvergun

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#7
Congrats!

The new 581+ serial number mini's are pretty damn nice! They are built to a much higher tolerance and you will notice a difference at the range. I have a 197 series (Made around 2004 I believe) stainless all weather, but still love it. Before bullet buttons were invented in california to bring in AR15s, mini14s were the best you could get. Its kind of sad how people hate on em now, but I will never sell my mini. Its a great all around plinker and reliability is top notch. :thumbs_up:

Do a search on the accustrut. It makes a huge difference in accuracy if you ever get the itch to upgrade it. Also, check out http://www.perfectunion.com its the mini14 forum of choice! :beerglass::cool:
 

oldgaranddad

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#10
I like the folding wood stock paratrooper style. View attachment 43397
Folding or collapsible stock in NY is a big NO-NO! Even if the stock is for a disabled shooter too. So much for the Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA). NY hypocrisy at its best. Yet look at all the politicians and their security details. They all have collapsible stocks on their firearms.
 

luckabuck

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#12
I'll take the .223 anytime over the .30-.06. Like the flatter trajectory and less recoil. That's why you don't see many military units world wide using the .30-.06.
 

Garyw

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#14
M-14 at 300 yds is pretty hard to beat. I used to be able to take mine apart and put it together if a couple minutes. When the government issued it to me. Now Obama will not let them back in from Korea.
 

luckabuck

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#16
"This is my weapon, and this is my gun. One is for fighting, and one is for fun". Same thing goes round and round. I did not like the lifestyle when I had the M-14-16 when in the military, and I appreciate the AR-15 more now because the lifestyle is more tolerable in retirement.
 

Argent Dragon

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#17
Actually, it's big brother is the M1 or M14. The AR-15 living at your house might be a second cousin, once removed from "the other side of the tracks". :)
Perhaps, but I have an equally BIG cousin to the M1 known as the FN-FAL. :thumbs_up:
 

oldgaranddad

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#18
I'll take the .223 anytime over the .30-.06. Like the flatter trajectory and less recoil. That's why you don't see many military units world wide using the .30-.06.
The 5.56x45mm (aka .223 in the civilian world with some minor differences) does not shoot flatter. The reason the .30-06 and .308Win were dropped was because of weight and manufacturing costs. Reduced recoil was a bonus. In fact the original M1 Garand was designed for 10 rounds of .270 Pederson which the 6.8 SPC & .300 Blackout rounds are very similar to nowadays ballistic wise. MacArthur objected to the .270 Pederson since the US had warehouses full of .30-06 left over from WWI and every other country still had fielded .30 caliber cartridges.

The original concept of the 5.56x45mm was to maim more than kill. It was developed for US vs. Soviet forces. The Soviets would not leave wounded in the field and every wounded man took two able bodied men out of conflict to assist their wounded. That is why in the sandbox forces had to upgrade to the higher caliber rounds because many combatants were high on chemical substances and would not go down unless hit multiple times and insurgents left their wounded comrades behind. If you hit them with a .30 caliber round they did go down drugs or no drugs.
 

<===Foolsgold

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#19
Just went to the gun store and paid $726 +tax cash for the Ruger Mini 14 Ranch w/wooden stock and blued barrel.

Pick it up tomorrow pictures over the weekend.
 

Silvergun

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#20
Folding or collapsible stock in NY is a big NO-NO! Even if the stock is for a disabled shooter too. So much for the Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA). NY hypocrisy at its best. Yet look at all the politicians and their security details. They all have collapsible stocks on their firearms.
Yep, same in california. They break it down by "evil features" and folding stock is listed as one. Pistol grip is also an evil feature in california, so beware. I do not know NY gun laws so DYODD. I personally like the mini for its simpleness and reliability. It gets the job done without attracting a lot of attention from the tacticool mall ninja types.

Goodluck out there and be safe!
 

Argentium

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#21
I recall that the early Mini-14's had a tendency to "wander" once the barrel got hot, due to the barrels were not thick enough. Is this still an issue?
 

<===Foolsgold

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#22
I recall that the early Mini-14's had a tendency to "wander" once the barrel got hot, due to the barrels were not thick enough. Is this still an issue?
I have no personal experience with any Mini14's but I am trusting the testimony of others .

In 2005, Ruger retooled its Mini-14 manufacturing facility to produce an updated design featuring numerous small alterations that in sum equals much greater precision from the shooter’s bench, returning groupings smaller than 2” with a standard 18.5” barrel and off the shelf ammo at 100 yards, rather than the 5” groupings typical of previous iterations.

http://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/2010/09/william-c-montgomery/reconsidering-the-ruger-mini-14/
 

SilverCity

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#23
I recall that the early Mini-14's had a tendency to "wander" once the barrel got hot, due to the barrels were not thick enough. Is this still an issue?
I owned one of the earlier ones. Poor accuracy was indeed a problem when the barrel heated up, in most cases after as few as five rounds. With the new 580s it's no longer an issue. Mine will hold around 2 MOA or so, even when hot, consistently hitting a six inch plate at 200yds with irons. More than adequate for plinking, hunting, self-defense.


SC
 

phoneman

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#24
The 5.56x45mm (aka .223 in the civilian world with some minor differences) does not shoot flatter. The reason the .30-06 and .308Win were dropped was because of weight and manufacturing costs. Reduced recoil was a bonus. In fact the original M1 Garand was designed for 10 rounds of .270 Pederson which the 6.8 SPC & .300 Blackout rounds are very similar to nowadays ballistic wise. MacArthur objected to the .270 Pederson since the US had warehouses full of .30-06 left over from WWI and every other country still had fielded .30 caliber cartridges.

The original concept of the 5.56x45mm was to maim more than kill. It was developed for US vs. Soviet forces. The Soviets would not leave wounded in the field and every wounded man took two able bodied men out of conflict to assist their wounded. That is why in the sandbox forces had to upgrade to the higher caliber rounds because many combatants were high on chemical substances and would not go down unless hit multiple times and insurgents left their wounded comrades behind. If you hit them with a .30 caliber round they did go down drugs or no drugs.
Thanks ! The 30-06 has a lot more punch than the 5.56x45mm. When the 5.56x 45mm was first used in battle, our guy hit the bad guy I think 3 times. Each bullet was termed a fetal wound because the bullets tumbled upon entering the body and caused massive damage. The load was changed later to get more range. The bullet was stabilized and didn't tumble any more.
 

Aurumag

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#25

Silvergun

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#26
I recall that the early Mini-14's had a tendency to "wander" once the barrel got hot, due to the barrels were not thick enough. Is this still an issue?
Exactly, thats why I mentioned the accustrut in one of my earlier posts. It makes a noticeable difference. Here is a pic...

ASRM2-BTBC_closeup02.jpg

After the accustrut I got rid of the flimsy flip up rear sight for an M1A style that attaches to the stock placement. I believe the newer 581+ series minis come with a better rear sight from the factory, so this shouldn't be an issue for the OP.
 

<===Foolsgold

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#28
Last week the truck from the warehouse broke down. So the baby finally arrived today and she looks sweet. Let's see if I can put a dent in the 2000 rounds of ammo I bought her this weekend.

DSC00947.jpg
 

<===Foolsgold

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#29
Now if you gentlemen would recommend a good scope I'll be all set.
 

<===Foolsgold

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#32
What is the primary use for that weapon and how much are you wanting to spend?
Well I just went for the lungs and ordered - Burris XTR 1.5-5x40mm Illuminated Reticle

On SilverCity recommendation.
 

GOLDBRIX

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#33
Now if you gentlemen would recommend a good scope I'll be all set.
Before you become "glass dependent" spend some time and rounds getting comfortable with those iron sights. It helps to be versatile. :thumbs_up:

In Afghanistan, sans snipers, the average ambush fire fight started by the enemy seemed to within 200 - 150 meters with little to no military personnel being hit. The Taliban's best weapon was the IED, not rifles.
You can figure the average US citizen conflict would have similar ratios. And for hunting purposes most game kills are well within 100 yds.

Practice makes perfect or at least better than the guy who don't.
 
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<===Foolsgold

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#34
1-4X Burris Compact

I HIGHLY recommend the Burris scope (of your choice), as the Minis tend to eat lesser scopes. The Burris is reinforced for recoil in both directions and is even stout enough for air rifles.

SC
SC I really appreciate your advice. My mini-14 came with 1 inch rings, I can exchange them for 30 mm rings free of charge. May I ask which scope you have pictured above?
I ordered the Burris XTR 1.5-5x40mm Illuminated Reticle impusively and cancelled the order, it required 30mm rings.

Do you have 1 inch rings or 30 mm rings? Which is preferable?

Everybody feel free to chime in.

Thank you
 

Toxa

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#35
Your budget of ~$800 is more the enough to get a great scope.

The mini is not a high precision rifle, at best 5.56 is a ~500 yards round so you don't need much magnification, 10 power max. Then look for a reticle to match your turret's adjustments. If you have a MOA reticle get MOA adjustments, MIL-MIL and so on. PLEASE don't buy an already "preset" reticle for 223 or what ever. It will only work with one specific round and at specific weather conditions. I would strongly recommend MIL or MOA scope. It wont take much time to learn how to use it and the benefits out way the BDC by a big margin.

Take a look at this video. In my opinion this guy does a great job breaking down what YOU would need in a scope for YOUR situation.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xgB22aXbbeI

His got like 6 videos on scopes alone, well over 2.5 hours (part 14 to 21). That should get you where you need be to select a scope for your application. PLEASE take your time and make an informed decision on what glass you want to spend your cash.
I know I'm not giving you the brand X recommendation, but instead opening up this box with more questions. But trust me if you are serious about getting the maximum effectiveness out of YOU and your rifle then please educate your self in scope selection.
 

<===Foolsgold

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#36
Your budget of ~$800 is more the enough to get a great scope.

The mini is not a high precision rifle, at best 5.56 is a ~500 yards round so you don't need much magnification, 10 power max. Then look for a reticle to match your turret's adjustments. If you have a MOA reticle get MOA adjustments, MIL-MIL and so on. PLEASE don't buy an already "preset" reticle for 223 or what ever. It will only work with one specific round and at specific weather conditions. I would strongly recommend MIL or MOA scope. It wont take much time to learn how to use it and the benefits out way the BDC by a big margin.

Take a look at this video. In my opinion this guy does a great job breaking down what YOU would need in a scope for YOUR situation.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xgB22aXbbeI

His got like 6 videos on scopes alone, well over 2.5 hours (part 14 to 21). That should get you where you need be to select a scope for your application. PLEASE take your time and make an informed decision on what glass you want to spend your cash.
I know I'm not giving you the brand X recommendation, but instead opening up this box with more questions. But trust me if you are serious about getting the maximum effectiveness out of YOU and your rifle then please educate your self in scope selection.
If I could thank you twice I would. I need to take a step back and learn what the h3ll I am doing, thanks again.
 

SilverCity

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#37
I agree with the comments about learning the iron sights first. When you have them dialed in and can shoot with accuracy, then try the scope. Many Mini owners forego optics altogether.

One thing I did with the rear sight aperture is drill it out with a 3/16 bit. It's a little too small, IMO.

Again, a compact Burris in 1-4x or 4x (maybe 2-7x) is about all you will need. Use the 1 inch rings, BTW.

Good luck.

SC
 

Toxa

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#38
Also make a decision early of what you want out of this rifle. Truly sit down and think "what is the number 1 reason I want this rifle for?". Because it can only be great at one thing and one thing only! Home defense/SHTF type stuff you might just settle on a nice red dot or 1-4 power optic to keep inside ~200 yards. For banning on steel plates at 500 yards you would want a 10 powers scope, but up close your ability to get AND STAY on target will be reduced.
Also dont get discouraged by red dot, I have no problem hitting a 12 inch plate at 300 yards with AR and red dot. If I take my time an 8 inch plate at same distance is also no challenge. But I have good eye sight.
Just remember what the goal of this set up.
 
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Toxa

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#39
I agree with the comments about learning the iron sights first. When you have them dialed in and can shoot with accuracy, then try the scope. Many Mini owners forego optics altogether.

Again a compact Burris in 1-4x or 4x is about all you will need.

SC
I have to respectfully disagree. To me iron sights are like stick shift in a truck. On top of learning how to drive the damn thing you have to constantly pay attention to the damn gear box/clutch. Same thing with iron sights. I would learn how to shoot first, then learn how to use the sights.
 
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Sport

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#40
I would thank Toxa twice as well. Optics are a very personal decision so make sure that you know what you want. Also, practice is just as important. Being familiar with your shooting system is very important when you are under stress.