Double pane.
Major construction project this summer -- advice welcome
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Lumber was delivered. Some of it went into the garage (especially all of the car siding for the cathedral ceiling). The rest will get tarped in the driveway for the next few months. Wondering about putting boat shrink wrap on it?
i would Tent/drape tarp it so it gets air flow......if you shrink wrap it your just trapping the moist air in with it and it will condesnate on the plastic when temps change......JMHO.......looks like a pile of $ to me :)
if you have equipment to restack it i would try to line up the dunnage boards so no odd loads are on any lumber to attempt to wharp it ..i was esp thinking the car sidding (at least thats what it looks like in the middle bundle) how its blocked up in the last pic with the bundle on top of it but you mention taking it inside anyway ....but keep that in mind
if you have equipment to restack it i would try to line up the dunnage boards so no odd loads are on any lumber to attempt to wharp it ..i was esp thinking the car sidding (at least thats what it looks like in the middle bundle) how its blocked up in the last pic with the bundle on top of it but you mention taking it inside anyway ....but keep that in mind
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Thanks. I will tarp.
Car siding is in the garage now in it's own stack, and so is all of the dimensional lumber. Only the I-Joists and plywood outside now.
Out of my 16 foot 2x12s a whole NINETEEN of them were split so that they were unusuable. I called Menard's on it, and they are sending someone out tomorrow with replacements. I have to say, they restored my confidence by delivering replacements the next day. Anything short of that, and I would not have been satisfied. I sure didn't feel like taking half a day to load them on a trailer and return them.
I figure someone in the yard took whatever was on the top of the stack, and that was pretty much what everyone else had set aside. Everything else looked good and was counted accurately.
I used lots of Ponderosa Pine car siding in my house. I varnished all of it in the garage on sawhorses using oil based clear satin polyurethane. This stuff is famous for runs, and the additive they use to gel it up to prevent runs adds much to the cost. But since I laid them flat on sawhorses, runs were no problem and this cheap floor poly was a good bang for my buck. I did two coats, no sanding at all and it looks great. Very tough finish. It's very time consuming unless you have dozens of sawhorses so start early. Dry enough for stacking in 48 hours.
Rust-Oleum Parks Pro Finisher 5 gal. Clear Satin 350 VOC Oil-Based Polyurethane for Floors 330522V
Parks 5-gal. Clear Satin Polyurethane is a professional grade polyurethane recommended for all wood floors and other interior wood surfaces where a beautiful protective finish is desired. With over 50%
www.homedepot.com
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So, I have a dilemma. I got my windows, and when the two custom basement windows came in they were labelled "not for egress." This was a surprise to me -- they are 24x36" casements (rough opening). I was planning for egress windows because eventually I would like to have two basement bedrooms. Evidently this is because the "clear opening" is just a tad too small.
* Do I just install them? (They are big enough for me, and the permitted building plans are for an unfinished basement. But I could see this being a problem if my kids sell the house in the future and the windows are non-conforming.)
* Should I eat the $900 and order larger windows? (This would require me to lower the final grade in the front yard by another 6in. It would also require going 6in wider on the windows so that they would be wider than the first story windows above. I could use these two windows to replace the two small single pane windows in my garage.)
Also, the upstairs windows would qualify for egress IF they had special hardware allowing them to open further. Because those are stock windows I could return them for an exchange. I don't know if the egress versions cost more or are special order, but I would expect so.
Whatever I decide for the basement is irreversible because it will be cast into the rough opening of the ICF foundation. This makes me want to err on the side of caution, but making the changes kind of blows up the design by lowering the grade and making a windows miss-match on the first floor (first floor windows were selected based on optimal framing / roof load distribution).
* Do I just install them? (They are big enough for me, and the permitted building plans are for an unfinished basement. But I could see this being a problem if my kids sell the house in the future and the windows are non-conforming.)
* Should I eat the $900 and order larger windows? (This would require me to lower the final grade in the front yard by another 6in. It would also require going 6in wider on the windows so that they would be wider than the first story windows above. I could use these two windows to replace the two small single pane windows in my garage.)
Also, the upstairs windows would qualify for egress IF they had special hardware allowing them to open further. Because those are stock windows I could return them for an exchange. I don't know if the egress versions cost more or are special order, but I would expect so.
Whatever I decide for the basement is irreversible because it will be cast into the rough opening of the ICF foundation. This makes me want to err on the side of caution, but making the changes kind of blows up the design by lowering the grade and making a windows miss-match on the first floor (first floor windows were selected based on optimal framing / roof load distribution).
I wouldn't go to all the trouble for sure as most people don't even know the requirements. Plus, according to this site those should qualify.
Basement Egress Window Requirements: Complete Guide
weekendbuilds.com
SLV, are the windows single pane? I mean just one sash per window.
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sly,
Check with your code guy if he says yes, install. However, if he says no sell em on facebook and get the correct windows...
Check with your code guy if he says yes, install. However, if he says no sell em on facebook and get the correct windows...
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New windows are double pane. Existing garage windows are single pane. However I have insulated the garage, so it would be benefitted with new windows.
I'm sorry but I meant to ask if the casements were just one 24" wide sash.
You shouldn't have to eat the $900, someone will buy them probably at what you paid for them, or the lumber yard will take them back.
Most places will work with you, especially when you will be spending more money other product.
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Yes.
With vinyl windows you get much wider frames and less glass than other types of windows like aluminum and fiberglass. They have to make them that way because vinyl is so flexible. Maybe a fiberglass framed window the same rough opening would be an egress window. Craigslist materials category is a place to sell unwanted windows.
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Road bans are in place still (weight limits until frost goes out). Maybe 2 weeks? Got the porch disassembled for digging and moved the pasture fence for grading. Need to drop an oak tree and change the gutters and spouts so that water doesn't dump into the hole.
What are you using for a pier? Waiting on an inspection?
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Took apart the existing porch so the pit could be dug for the new basement walls. Addition roof will tie into porch roof.
Pray for no rain.
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Just some sprinkles in the forecast. I will set a sump pump in there to be safe.
That's interesting. No footer on your stem wall foundation, window in a crawl space. What are we seeing in the bottom of your hole? Lighter colored material and a black line.
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It's a full basement. Pink is foam insulation.
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I'm not a contractor, architect or builder. But looking at this thread, one thing puzzles me.
It appears (maybe I missed the back-story) you used the original dilapidated structure as your original home, and now you're building a fine "addition" (really a second half, or a new full home) onto it. To my eye, it seems like a lot of work to save what was basically an abandoned structure.
Why was that done? Is there historical value in that original house? Did it grandfather you in, building in a location or manner that otherwise wouldn't have been permitted?
It appears (maybe I missed the back-story) you used the original dilapidated structure as your original home, and now you're building a fine "addition" (really a second half, or a new full home) onto it. To my eye, it seems like a lot of work to save what was basically an abandoned structure.
Why was that done? Is there historical value in that original house? Did it grandfather you in, building in a location or manner that otherwise wouldn't have been permitted?
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When I originally built I was broke. I used what I had and what I could get for free. Now I can afford to use new materials and build to a better quality. Nothing sentimental about the structure other than 6 years of my blood sweat and tears to make a home for my family. The land, however is sentimental - been in my wife's family for over a century.
I can smell the dirt from here.
This reminds me of a couple that put an addition onto their house as their kids were transitioning to college. The 2 boys grew up in tight quarters. It is my understanding that the addition was to house the guys aging parents. I should give them a shout out. Hadn't spoke with them since the boo hoo came around.
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That's how my four girls feel. Two are in college and they feel like we will finally have space when they are no longer living at with us.
I am also preparing to house my parents if needed. In the long run I am making this a house I can grow old in (main floor bedroom and bathroom) and host family get-togethers.
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SLV,l
Good God man, has it been 13 YEARS since you left CO? I think I was the last guy you visited as you left town.
I have watched your progress since then.
Glad you have survived and have thrived. I've gotten older, approaching 69 this year.
Keep your steady head on your shoulders. Keep on your path, as you have planned.
I said a prayer for you a couple of nights ago.
May GOD keep an eye on you and your family.
I'm currently in San Angelo, caring for my 95 year old mother. Both my inlaws have passed as has my Dad. We are working hard with keeping my mom happy and healthy.
WE ONLY GO AROUND ONCE.
MAKE IT COUNT my brother.
Good God man, has it been 13 YEARS since you left CO? I think I was the last guy you visited as you left town.
I have watched your progress since then.
Glad you have survived and have thrived. I've gotten older, approaching 69 this year.
Keep your steady head on your shoulders. Keep on your path, as you have planned.
I said a prayer for you a couple of nights ago.
May GOD keep an eye on you and your family.
I'm currently in San Angelo, caring for my 95 year old mother. Both my inlaws have passed as has my Dad. We are working hard with keeping my mom happy and healthy.
WE ONLY GO AROUND ONCE.
MAKE IT COUNT my brother.
No rebar, no keyway. WTF?
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When I did my ICF, I had the concrete poured, then I drilled and pounded the rebar around the perimeter. I don't recall any problem with the rebar interfering with the plastic inserts in the ICF.
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Basement walls up and wrapped with GB700 self-adhessive waterproofing and covered with DMX Air Gap. Hopefully rock will be delivered tomorrow so I can prep for the floor and pour on Friday. Thursday will be a busy day as I lay out the radiant floor.
You will be glad you used the wrap when you have a dry basement! Doesn't it seem pretty crazy to put fasteners through that nice rubber?
For anyone else wanting to apply the rubber....
Do all the miters, base cuts and inside/outside corners first.
If you do your base miters and then do a piece that covers the top of the footer and comes up the wall 6", you can then hang full sheets much easier. Then wrap the corners first going 6"-12" each way off the corner, you can then lay your whole sheets on top of the corner wrap without any wrinkles from trying to turn the corner with a full width sheet.
For anyone else wanting to apply the rubber....
Do all the miters, base cuts and inside/outside corners first.
If you do your base miters and then do a piece that covers the top of the footer and comes up the wall 6", you can then hang full sheets much easier. Then wrap the corners first going 6"-12" each way off the corner, you can then lay your whole sheets on top of the corner wrap without any wrinkles from trying to turn the corner with a full width sheet.
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The self-adhesive wrap is a tar that you pull the plastic off on one side - semi-fluid. It seals around the srews.
Rock is on the way. Prepping starts now for basement floor on Friday. I am having the floor pumped so we don't run wheelbarrows over the radiant tubes.
Rock is on the way. Prepping starts now for basement floor on Friday. I am having the floor pumped so we don't run wheelbarrows over the radiant tubes.
TAEZZAR
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That is what we did too. It's bad enough that the workers need to walk on the tubing.
For crack prevention, we did alternating pads, so we did not use a concrete saw.