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Master the Art of Sharpening Knives to Hatchets

TAEZZAR

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I ran across this & decided to watch it & to see what he says about sharpening.
I like his demeanor & data. He is such a simple, smart "teacher".

 

TAEZZAR

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Watched all his videos. He reminds me exactly of the journeyman I got to work with my whole apprenticeship. Every day I’m thankful I got to work with a guy like that for 5 years.

I too, learned from the "Masters of yesteryear" !:2 thumbs up::finished:
 

chrisflhtc

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Reminds me of my Dad.:2 thumbs up:
 

Silver

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He knows what he's doing, I saw one of his vids on marking and measuring that covered about everything.
 

Buck

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i may have one tool that had an 'edge' but isn't sharp

my #1 suggestion to any / all newbies to knife sharpening, practice on a dud knife FIRST

practice on several of them, it's a tough lesson to think you're 'good enough' to touch up the edge on a very nice knife, only to see that, at some time in the process, you've made several scratches on other parts of the blade you didn't want touched...blade handling is not so important on daily use and / or rusted knife, but for your 'keepers', it certain is

practice practice practice but you'll soon 'get it'

GL

good video...easy to follow, i like those kind
:2 thumbs up:
 

specsaregood

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I ran across this & decided to watch it & to see what he says about sharpening.
I like his demeanor & data. He is such a simple, smart "teacher".


This was excellent. I didnt think I would finish it going in; then I got hooked. I'm gonna have my kid watch it today.
 

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Great video. I do or have done all the sharpening techniques but the power equipment. I use a file to sharpen my lawnmower blade, Ax, and machete. I have the two sided whet stone, a course, and a fine steel for improving an edge. I got the fine steel in my early 20s while working in an abattoir as a "Header" and still have a cutting knife and the skinning knife I used for that job.
The old guys I worked with would shave with their knives before going on the Kill Floor to make sure they started the day with sharp knives.
Me, I can make a blade sharp but not to that quality. Best at Axes and mower blades.
My grandfather had several sets of knives for meat cutting in the store. Every 6 mo. he'd send half out for a professional sharpening.
"A sharp knife makes easier work" my uncle would say.
FWIW: I still buy boneless chuck roasts when they are on sale and slice them down to steaks. The right cut of chuck is close the the rib steaks. Look for the Rib Eye muscle when looking at roasts.
If ya don't know what that is look at a rib steak, the large center round piece of muscle. That is what you look for but it will be smaller in the roast ends.

Sorry about the flashbacks.
 

TAEZZAR

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Owning a machine shop, I am the opposite. I know how to sharpen about anything on a belt sander, green wheel, white wheel, or ....
GB, Rib Eye is my favorite steak. I look for consistent marbling, sufficient fat & a nice "lip".
I worked in a little butcher shop as a kid & learned a little bit about meat cutting.
Thanks for the flashback !:2 thumbs up::2 thumbs up::2 thumbs up::finished:
 

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I've been sharpening knives for decades using everything from whetstones to a (now) Ken Onion version of Work Sharp, a belt type sharpener. I've gotten decent at it but have never made it to master level. I still have trouble with M390 and the high level CPM steels.
 

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Just sharpened a batch of 8 knives using the Ken onion belt sharpener. Most of them were medium to high quality kitchen knives but one was my new EDC pocket knife with M390 steel and another pocket knife with Japanese VG10 steel.

I am embarrassed to be lazy enough to let our kitchen knives get to a state where only the serrated knives would cut a tomato. Especially since I consider myself to be a moderately advanced sharpener.

A couple of the kitchen knives were bunged up enough to have to start them out with 120 grit to get the notches out of the blades. All the kitchen knives including the Wusthoff knives came up with a burr after no more that 2 passes at around 1 inch/second across a 240 grit belt at low speed. The VG10 blade took several passes but the M390--------, it took a while. I'm not sure I would have had the patience to sharpen it if I hadn't been using a motorized belt sharpener. But M390 will remain sharp longer.

Within a few minutes I can bring VG10 steel to where just touching an arm hair with the blade will "pop" it off but it takes me a good portion of an hour to do the same with M390 or , frankly, the other supersteels that I've experienced.

I've got some S30V and S90V blades. Not sure what to think about it but I have a S30V blade from Kershaw that I can't seem to sharpen at all and an S30V blade from Benchmade that sharpens well. My S90V blade in in the same category as the M390, very hard to deal with.

If a this is too technical, boil it down to this: If you're considering buying a knife and the product literature either doesn't mention the blade material or identifies it as just "stainless", give it a pass. If the knife is worth anything, the blade steel will be specifically stated.
 

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Ive taken some metallurgy classes and have never heard of those steels. Man you guys around here have some amazing hobbies.
 

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Just sharpened a batch of 8 knives using the Ken onion belt sharpener. Most of them were medium to high quality kitchen knives but one was my new EDC pocket knife with M390 steel and another pocket knife with Japanese VG10 steel.

I am embarrassed to be lazy enough to let our kitchen knives get to a state where only the serrated knives would cut a tomato. Especially since I consider myself to be a moderately advanced sharpener.

A couple of the kitchen knives were bunged up enough to have to start them out with 120 grit to get the notches out of the blades. All the kitchen knives including the Wusthoff knives came up with a burr after no more that 2 passes at around 1 inch/second across a 240 grit belt at low speed. The VG10 blade took several passes but the M390--------, it took a while. I'm not sure I would have had the patience to sharpen it if I hadn't been using a motorized belt sharpener. But M390 will remain sharp longer.

Within a few minutes I can bring VG10 steel to where just touching an arm hair with the blade will "pop" it off but it takes me a good portion of an hour to do the same with M390 or , frankly, the other supersteels that I've experienced.

I've got some S30V and S90V blades. Not sure what to think about it but I have a S30V blade from Kershaw that I can't seem to sharpen at all and an S30V blade from Benchmade that sharpens well. My S90V blade in in the same category as the M390, very hard to deal with.

If a this is too technical, boil it down to this: If you're considering buying a knife and the product literature either doesn't mention the blade material or identifies it as just "stainless", give it a pass. If the knife is worth anything, the blade steel will be specifically stated.

Did a quick search on some of these steels. Looks like M390 is a great steel but the variable that it lacks is that it's the most difficult to sharpen.

1613405450830.png


https://www.bladehq.com/cat--Best-Knife-Steel-Guide--3368#m390

I have heard of course of the much more common 1095 steel. That is pretty ubiquitous.

The M390 is really unique. It has a ton of other elements and looks like its only 71.5% Iron. A very high Chrome-Vanadium steel.

Carbon 1.9
Chrome 20.0
Molybdenum 1.0
Tungsten 0.6
Vanadium 4.0
Manganese 0.3
Silicon 0.7
 
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Goldbrix

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From time to time you are gonna need to sharpen / hone your knife/knives no matter the steel. May as well fine a metal easy to work with yet holds a decent edge. JMOPO
 

cameo

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Did a quick search on some of these steels. Looks like M390 is a great steel but the variable that it lacks is that it's the most difficult to sharpen.

View attachment 201966

https://www.bladehq.com/cat--Best-Knife-Steel-Guide--3368#m390

I have heard of course of the much more common 1095 steel. That is pretty ubiquitous.

The M390 is really unique. It has a ton of other elements and looks like its only 71.5% Iron. A very high Chrome-Vanadium steel.

Carbon 1.9
Chrome 20.0
Molybdenum 1.0
Tungsten 0.6
Vanadium 4.0
Manganese 0.3
Silicon 0.7

The Elmax steel (also in the chart) appears to be just as good as the M390, if not slightly better, depending on what you`re looking for ........
 

WillA2

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Good video.

I have a few good knives that I use. I make a point to work the blades over right before I use them, each time.
 

TAEZZAR

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As a general rule, I just use stainless blades that are slightly magnetic (400 series). They will, for me, sharpen quite well.

BUT my favorite knife is an old carbon steel knife that I can get it as sharp as a razor.
 

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I love to go to flea markets and household auctions looking for old quality knives. Have about twenty that are great: boning, skinning, fillet, carving, small to large cleavers, etc. Everyone in the house knows not to touch my knives, they don't live in the regular kitchen drawer with the spatulas. The wife is afraid of them anyways. They are razor sharp and she cuts her finger every time.

Some of the best must be 100 years old, or more. Hickory handles with brass rivets, perfectly balanced. A few of these had nicks or small chips on the cutting edge but I can bring them back to life. Only paid a buck or two for some of my favorites.

Every once in a while I sit in the garage, drink beer, listen to music, and sharpen the ones that need attention. Must have a dozen different size/grit stones. It's like therapy. Quality equipment is a joy to use.

Also pretty fussy about cutting boards and iron skillets, conversation for another day.
 

Goldbrix

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I love to go to flea markets and household auctions looking for old quality knives. Have about twenty that are great: boning, skinning, fillet, carving, small to large cleavers, etc. Everyone in the house knows not to touch my knives, they don't live in the regular kitchen drawer with the spatulas. The wife is afraid of them anyways. They are razor sharp and she cuts her finger every time.

Some of the best must be 100 years old, or more. Hickory handles with brass rivets, perfectly balanced. A few of these had nicks or small chips on the cutting edge but I can bring them back to life. Only paid a buck or two for some of my favorites.

Every once in a while I sit in the garage, drink beer, listen to music, and sharpen the ones that need attention. Must have a dozen different size/grit stones. It's like therapy. Quality equipment is a joy to use.

Also pretty fussy about cutting boards and iron skillets, conversation for another day.
You ought to show your wife how much easier things are when done with a sharp knife.
My late MIL helped by giving my wife a paring knife she always use, and that baby was sharp. Can't get her to learn to use a steel but I don't mind refining the edge when needed.
 

TAEZZAR

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You ought to show your wife how much easier things are when done with a sharp knife.

And how much safer !:2 thumbs up:
You have much better control of a sharp knife, than a dull one. :gracious:
 
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everything

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I'm really into wooden handle knives, nice collection, worked on a few but little patience for them.
 

TomD

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After a lifetime of water and oil stones Japanese and Arkansas, Lansky sharpeners, sticks, steels, Edge Pro, on up through more expensive ones, I've terminating with a motorized belt sharpener.

Attached picture of a Case Shark Tooth that was my EDC for years and has to be pushing 50 years old now. Look at what I managed to do to the blade in the 5-6 years that it had to suffer my attentions. Good thing I didn't have access to motorized equipment then.

What I like about powered belt sanders is that I can sharpen a lot of knives pretty rapidly but the down side is that I can ruin a bunch of knives pretty rapidly. A main trick is knowing what grit to start with. If all I'm trying to do is to reestablish an edge and the blade is profiled where I want it, I'll start around 400 up. THE main trick in sharpening is establishing a burr and knowing what it feels like. If a few to several passes across the belt doesn't begin to get a burr, I'll drop the grit to 200 but be real careful. Once you get the burr, flip the knife over and get the burr on the other side, then change the belt to around 600-800. When I have changed grit, I'll do a couple of quick passes one side then another to deburr, then start making passes to raise the burr on the new grit. Once you have raised the burr, quit, all you will do with further work is remove the blade. Sorta like I did, except by hand, with my poor abused Shark Tooth. I've got belts up to 10,000 grit but rarely go past 1,000. The blades look like a mirror at 1,000 anyway. Kitchen knives are fine at 400.

If a blade had to be totally reprofiled or has deep notches, I'll start it out at 80 grit. I've got a leather strop to finish things off.

The other THE main trick to sharpening no matter your method is finding a way that works for you to hold the blade angle constant during the cut stroke..

DSC07094.jpg
 

Goldbrix

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After a lifetime of water and oil stones Japanese and Arkansas, Lansky sharpeners, sticks, steels, Edge Pro, on up through more expensive ones, I've terminating with a motorized belt sharpener.

Attached picture of a Case Shark Tooth that was my EDC for years and has to be pushing 50 years old now. Look at what I managed to do to the blade in the 5-6 years that it had to suffer my attentions. Good thing I didn't have access to motorized equipment then.

What I like about powered belt sanders is that I can sharpen a lot of knives pretty rapidly but the down side is that I can ruin a bunch of knives pretty rapidly. A main trick is knowing what grit to start with. If all I'm trying to do is to reestablish an edge and the blade is profiled where I want it, I'll start around 400 up. THE main trick in sharpening is establishing a burr and knowing what it feels like. If a few to several passes across the belt doesn't begin to get a burr, I'll drop the grit to 200 but be real careful. Once you get the burr, flip the knife over and get the burr on the other side, then change the belt to around 600-800. When I have changed grit, I'll do a couple of quick passes one side then another to deburr, then start making passes to raise the burr on the new grit. Once you have raised the burr, quit, all you will do with further work is remove the blade. Sorta like I did, except by hand, with my poor abused Shark Tooth. I've got belts up to 10,000 grit but rarely go past 1,000. The blades look like a mirror at 1,000 anyway. Kitchen knives are fine at 400.

If a blade had to be totally reprofiled or has deep notches, I'll start it out at 80 grit. I've got a leather strop to finish things off.

The other THE main trick to sharpening no matter your method is finding a way that works for you to hold the blade angle constant during the cut stroke..

View attachment 204980
I've got a MAKO model CASE. DANG Guy It looks like you have taken a lot of edge off that blade. Is that your EDC ?
 

TomD

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I use a belt sander also (Ken Onion) in most all of my knives. But — if you need to sharpen in the field where you don't have electrics, you need a flat edge. The belt sanders do fine (easy razor sharp) but the edge is a bit rounded because of the belt sag and it makes it hard to sharpen on a whetstone.

sharpener.jpg

Just an observation.

BF

(sorry – I can't draw worth shit)
 
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TomD

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You sketches are fine, you got the isometric of the stone perfect..

On the other hand, almost all knives are originally using a belt sander and, so, will have a slightly convex blade from the maker.
 

TAEZZAR

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I ran across this & decided to watch it & to see what he says about sharpening.
I like his demeanor & data. He is such a simple, smart "teacher".


YEEEEEE HAWWW !!!! :finished: :finished: :finished: :finished:
TODAY, 17 Nov. 2021 I met this man, the one in my video, while in a builders supply. I was meeting with my builder to pick out doors & windows.
He is here in Roseburg, Or.
We had a nice conversation & he invited me to join a group of old fart machinist & fabricators.
Of course I joined !!!
At 16:30, he mentions the group.
This made my month !!! :beer::beer::beer:

AND, BTW, had I not lost my place in the fire, I probably would have never met him.
So, it is true "out of bad, always comes a little good", or something like that !
 

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BUT my favorite knife is an old carbon steel knife that I can get it as sharp as a razor.
I have one of those as well.

I got it years ago a potluck at my house and it was left behind.

Nobody ever claimed it.

Does anyone here make knives?
BF
yes there is someone, can't recall at this time who, but they post here.
 

chrisflhtc

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My latest purchase the larger one. I bought thte smaller one around twenty years ago and have only had to sharpen it once or twice It gets used a lot and will still shave hair.
 

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I like the idea of Para-cord wrap on the grip.
 

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I like the idea of Para-cord wrap on the grip.
That's the way it came. It will make it difficult to clean, first time it gets soaked in blood it will probably come off.
 

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That's the way it came. It will make it difficult to clean, first time it gets soaked in blood it will probably come off.
Watch how it comes off and just copy the pattern in reverse. I see the para-cord as extra utility.
 

TAEZZAR

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That's the way it came. It will make it difficult to clean, first time it gets soaked in blood it will probably come off.
Being a fisherman, I had the same thought.
Watch how it comes off and just copy the pattern in reverse. I see the para-cord as extra utility.
GB, that would be every time I went fishing. I may not always get fish, BUT I always cut bait ! :2 thumbs up: :beer: :beer:
 

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As a general rule, I just use stainless blades that are slightly magnetic (400 series). They will, for me, sharpen quite well.

BUT my favorite knife is an old carbon steel knife that I can get it as sharp as a razor.
Taez,
I can get old carbon steel blades like you, shaving sharp. I used to be the sharpener in our deer camp. Used whetstones.
For the life of me I can't sharpen a SS blade.
 

TAEZZAR

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Taez,
I can get old carbon steel blades like you, shaving sharp. I used to be the sharpener in our deer camp. Used whetstones.
For the life of me I can't sharpen a SS blade.
Some stainless knives have more carbon steel than others, & therefore less stainless properties and a bit more magnetic. These will sharpen better.
Nothing gets sharp like fully magnetic, carbon steel of high quality.
As you probably know, find an old tarnished one, that is in good shape.
 

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TAEZZAR

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Nice data, hoarder, thank you. :2 thumbs up: :finished: :beer::beer::beer:
 

TAEZZAR

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It appears that M390 is the best all around steel.

edit
oops I read the colors wrong.
CPM-S30V looks best, to me.
 

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