Shingles don't even extend to the edge of the drip edge.
workin man
- Thread starter stonedywankanobe
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And the gutter guard's installed so that hangs past the gutter and thus drips to the ground instead of into the gutter. Friggin crackheads.
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who decided to have different plumbing for bathroom sinks and kitchen sinks? They should be shot
Plumbers, jeesh.
Hot's on the left, colds on the right, shit flows downhill & payday's on Friday( plumbers mantra ie: only things they are concerned with).
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Pops and I running some mini rib under the porches on the house we’ve been on for too damn long.
Staples can do miracles!
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plumbing will drain your wallet and your sanity
Need parts, Dave. I have a whole drawer full of, I think this will work pieces that I'd be happy to part with.
"Staples and will power ought to hold it 'gether long enough for me to skip town!"
Nice drip edge...put another coat of paint on it...thank you sir, might I have another?
Hey, flashing's expensive!
Can of worms there, misty. Have fun.
If you cover all of that how will the house breathe?
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I’ve been remodeling our kitchen lately, repainted cabinets, walls, new counter tops and doing a new backsplash. Got to the top rip on the backsplash and had to ease out the cabinet sides to allow the tile enough clearance to not have to notch it.
Was gonna use a vibrating saw and thought it could be a mess so I made one of those dust catchers like Dialbro would do.
Turns out I could have just cleaned up the mess faster than it took me to prep the catch.
Anyways it felt good being tidy and keeping the job site clean and neat.
Wrapped it up and shipped it postage due to Andial’s house this morning.
Was gonna use a vibrating saw and thought it could be a mess so I made one of those dust catchers like Dialbro would do.
Turns out I could have just cleaned up the mess faster than it took me to prep the catch.
Anyways it felt good being tidy and keeping the job site clean and neat.
Wrapped it up and shipped it postage due to Andial’s house this morning.
Ought not to be fun grouting those little buggers
After 16 years living in the house I've been building out the unfinished basement over the last 3 months. Almost done!
Here's a question for you more experienced guys... I'm doing 6" white tiles, never did a tub before and not sure about the space above the tub and the Durrock. Stuff it full of mortar and place the tile 1/8" above the tub (caulk the space) is what I'm thinking.
Getting close! Carpet comes end of month.
Picked up this beauty at Lowes the other night. Was wandering through the vanity area and this was all boxed up at a reduced price! We were looking for a 48" and stumbled onto this!
$75 out the door!
Here's a question for you more experienced guys... I'm doing 6" white tiles, never did a tub before and not sure about the space above the tub and the Durrock. Stuff it full of mortar and place the tile 1/8" above the tub (caulk the space) is what I'm thinking.
Getting close! Carpet comes end of month.
Picked up this beauty at Lowes the other night. Was wandering through the vanity area and this was all boxed up at a reduced price! We were looking for a 48" and stumbled onto this!
$75 out the door!
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Like Mister said, Definitely color match calk there and in the corners. Also you can grout there and over wipe giving a backer for the calk line if it’s too deep.
If you mud the bottom of durock, use a fiberglass mesh tape for reinforcement.
I did the corners and joints with this stuff... and still have a few yards left over. It's like a very fine cloth.
Roofing Details That Work
How to apply ice-barrier membranes and other roof flashings to prevent leaks.
www.jlconline.com
JLC Online
Roofing
Roofing Details That Work
How the proper use of specialized flashing membranes and underlayment will prevent roof leaks.
By Doug Horgan
DOWNLOAD THE PDF VERSION OF THIS ARTICLE. (3.19 MB)
Our company is celebrating its 30th year in business, and we’ve had plenty of opportunities to see what works and what fails on roofs in our climate.
In the next few pages, I’ll show a few examples of our tradecraft standard for steep-slope roofs, as we teach it to our people. The photos on these pages show some mistakes, and some things done right. The drawings show how we would prefer to see things done. In particular, I’m showing our recommended details for ice dam protection, step flashing, underlayment and drip edge, and crickets and valleys.
These methods we teach aren’t the only way to do any of this work, but they’re the techniques we’ve developed over many years of trial and error on hundreds of jobs.
These details are guided in part by code, but more importantly, we’re guided by the goal of making sure we don’t have to come back and fix something after it’s built and has to face the weather. In our Maryland and Virginia climate, we have high confidence that these roofing details will work.
Roofing is back-breaking labor. That’s probably why in our market, and most likely in yours, there’s a lot of turnover among the roofing contractor labor pool. And so while many of the details here are fairly simple, we find that we have to teach them over and over again to roofers in our market. If you’re in that situation too, I hope the drawings here will be helpful to you.
Click to enlarge
For asphalt-shingle roofs, apply ice barrier membrane at all eaves, valleys, and crickets. Under slate, metal, tile, simulated slate, or other roofing where required by manufacturer’s instructions or code, apply membrane over entire roof surface. Use “high-temp” ice barrier membrane under metal roofing.
Tim Healey
For asphalt-shingle roofs, apply ice barrier membrane at all eaves, valleys, and crickets. Under slate, metal, tile, simulated slate, or other roofing where required by manufacturer’s instructions or code, apply membrane over entire roof surface. Use “high-temp” ice barrier membrane under metal roofing.
Ice Dam Protection
We use an ice barrier membrane at all eaves and in all valleys. At the edge of the roof, we call for the membrane to be folded over and adhered to the fascia board, lapping down onto the fascia about an inch. Depending on the manufacturer’s spec, some roofing materials may require an ice barrier membrane on the entire roof.
By code, the membrane has to extend inboard of the exterior wall by 2 feet. As a rule of thumb, we expect to use two courses of membrane if the roof overhang exceeds 8 inches.
Some ice barrier membranes have a granular or sand surface to make them more slip-resistant for trade workers who are stepping on the roof. That type of membrane can bleed soft asphalt in the hot sun, and it’s subject to damage during construction.
Also, the asphalt in that membrane can cause shingles to stick down in service. So as an option, we suggest covering the membrane with felt paper or synthetic underlayment as a bond break for the shingles.
Click to enlarge
If ice barrier membrane goes down before fascia, some types can be run wild over the plywood edge and bent down later. Others are too flexible, so the release paper needs to be left on to protect the last few inches of adhesive. It can be carefully sliced and left attached, or pieces of it can be re-adhered to the bottom edge of the membrane.
Tim Healey
If ice barrier membrane goes down before fascia, some types can be run wild over the plywood edge and bent down later. Others are too flexible, so the release paper needs to be left on to protect the last few inches of adhesive. It can be carefully sliced and left attached, or pieces of it can be re-adhered to the bottom edge of the membrane.
Drip edge is installed along the rake to keep out wind-blown rain. In Virginia where the author works, installing it isn’t required by code, so roofers have to be specifically instructed to install drip edge.
Tim Healey
Drip edge is installed along the rake to keep out wind-blown rain. In Virginia where the author works, installing it isn’t required by code, so roofers have to be specifically instructed to install drip edge.
Underlayment and Drip Edge
Ideally, fascia board will be installed before the ice barrier membrane to facilitate adhering the membrane to the fascia. Our practice is to install the membrane next, then install the drip edge over the top of that. As an option, we may specify a strip of peel-and-stick flashing tape over the top edge of the drip edge.
Drip edge that doesn’t hang into the gutter can direct water behind the gutter and soak the fascia and soffit, as shown above.
Drip edge that doesn’t hang into the gutter can direct water behind the gutter and soak the fascia and soffit, as shown above.
Our standard gutter install is to tuck the gutter under the drip edge, and place the fasteners straight through both on the back edge. But on our larger houses, long runs of gutter sloped at 1/8 inch per foot may run out from behind the drip edge. In that case, we call for an additional strip of metal to bridge the gap between the drip edge and the gutter.
Click to enlarge
Provide kickout flashings where step flashing ends on sidewall. Manufactured kickouts made from preformed plastic (polypropylene) or factory-welded metal are preferable. Site-built metal flashings must be fully soldered, not caulked or folded and cut to shape.
Tim Healey
Provide kickout flashings where step flashing ends on sidewall. Manufactured kickouts made from preformed plastic (polypropylene) or factory-welded metal are preferable. Site-built metal flashings must be fully soldered, not caulked or folded and cut to shape.
Step Flashing
Wind-driven rain and snow can penetrate between step-flashing pieces and wet the sidewalls and the roof. So we instruct our roofers to run the ice barrier membrane and the roof underlayment up the sidewalls. We ask for 6 inches up the wall. Four is adequate, but asking for 6 allows for a bit of imperfect utility-knife work, and it’s easy to check if it’s been done even with the code-required 4-inch-tall step flashings.
To keep the roof and the wall dry, drainage-plane fabric (housewrap) on the wall needs to lap down over this roof underlayment, not run behind it. If the wall housewrap is already in place when the underlayment is installed, we instruct the roofers to slit the housewrap and pull it back, then reattach it over the roof underlayment.
A roofer has cut the housewrap at the joint between the roof and the wall, folding it back so that he can lap it down over the underlayment and step flashing, as the author recommends.
A roofer has cut the housewrap at the joint between the roof and the wall, folding it back so that he can lap it down over the underlayment and step flashing, as the author recommends.
Synthetic underlayment and ice barrier membrane readily fold at this wall-to-roof joint. But the heavier asphalt felts have a tendency to crack if you try to fold them like this. So if we’re installing felt paper, we back it up with a peel-and-stick membrane at the corner.
Click to enlarge
Frame cricket valleys (and valleys abutting walls) a minimum 2 inches from final finishes at corners to avoid trapping leaf debris at trim and flashings. At larger crickets and valleys, the distance from corner should be increased to accommodate increased volumes of water.
Tim Healey
Frame cricket valleys (and valleys abutting walls) a minimum 2 inches from final finishes at corners to avoid trapping leaf debris at trim and flashings. At larger crickets and valleys, the distance from corner should be increased to accommodate increased volumes of water.
Above, a cricket valley is trapping leaves and debris. Framing to allow more space at this location could help keep the valley clear.
Above, a cricket valley is trapping leaves and debris. Framing to allow more space at this location could help keep the valley clear.
Crickets and Valleys
Architect plans for crickets behind vertical elements such as chimneys often show the cricket terminating right at the corner of the wall. It looks good on paper, but in practice, this creates a trap for leaves and debris, blocking the flow of rainwater coming down the valley downslope of the cricket. So we coordinate with the framers to construct the cricket so the valley misses the wall intersection by a couple of inches, allowing a freer flow of water. This also makes it easier for the roofers and siding contractors to keep the valley flashing and the sidewall step flashing disentangled.
About the Author
Doug Horgan is vice president of best practices at BOWA, a design/build remodeling company in McLean and Middleburg Va.
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typically, most of us don't cover windows with stud walls,
but I did do it on a project back in the day. Window was in the way of a kitchen layout, so I put black film over the inside, insulated it good, then drywalled right over it. From the outside it still looked like a operating window.
We found it easier to stud the windows, then cut them out and frame the opening.
It kept everything together until we put the cripples, header and sills in.
Looks like they took the time at least....
That's an escape portal to a different dimension...
I can taste and smell it from here.
Yep, it's a problem alright. Ya just gotta be innovative.
Couldn't get door handles so...
Then we needed a bathroom sink. Out of stock, no problem...
And ya can't hardly get any electrical components, but ya can make do...
All in fun guys, but I do feel the pain, I can't get 4 inch drain pipe around here.
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what is the roof insulation?
how about venting?
seems like there is ice damning going on also?
or do you guys even have that down there?
something is causing that water damage that far up the roof IMO,
wrote that and didn't post it, then saw your most recent
sure enough roof over roof with air gap between
heat and moisture buildup in that space can cause all manner of cool things,
JMO, I would get that addressed while you are out there,
Appears to have to have soffit vents. Could incorporate gable and ridge venting.
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Nice little piping job this morning. The wife is now happy. Cheated and used pro press/ sweat mix. All left over from a job so it was free!
Thank you a lot for chiming in and giving me your ideas. It's been a bit overwhelming as the can of worms continues through spring and sproing.
I don't believe ice damming has occurred but I do thank the piss Poe installation of the roof & gutter is what caused the damage at the edge.
I was also just told yesterday that the previous owner purported to have had the roofers install ice and water shield to the tune of $750. I told the owner that I have the photographic evidence that they did not do any such thing and in fact went in the opposite direction and not only given install a proper protection but the tar paper that they did put on didn't even reach the address and cover the bare wood!
Anyway I do think the venting is a big issue and needs to be addressed.
Right now however I'm having trouble finalizing the design of this Cricket that I want to build and could use any import or help that you guys can offer. That means you too Mr. shy reader!
Can't decide whether to slope the "walls" or continue the roof straight out and jog out existing 90* wall...treat it flashing, asphalt etc.
Trying to avoid compound angles/more work as much as possible.
Original equick sketch