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workin man

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hammerhead

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Tricky sitiation there and I have no absolute answer. A low gloss poly would be darker than a high gloss. I'm thinking you can (have to) stain the boards before putting a poly over them.
 
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GOLDBRIX

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Was thinking of a idea to tint the poly rather than staining then going over the poly.
Sounds like you are trying to re-invent the wheel.
Best of Luck
 

hoarder

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Sounds like you are trying to re-invent the wheel.
Best of Luck
Pre-tinted polyurethane has been around a long time. I just don't think it's advisable to tint at all before trying to tan it.
My cabin partition walls are all covered in knotty pine t&g and I'm acutely aware of the tan issue. You hang a picture on the wall and take it down a year later and ohshit, a pale outline. On the last house I built, I stored a few knotty pine doors on a covered porch for a few weeks before hanging them. The tan lines were very noticeable. Research turned up no solutions so I just sanded to blend the lines, polyurethaned them and hung them. The polyurethane obscured the tan somewhat and after one summer of light the tan was even.

How wood tans varies according to sunlight, species and age of wood, so it's nearly impossible to predict the outcome.

BTW, Minwax is about the worst oil based polyurethane there is. Varathane is the same price and much better (dries faster, sands better and smells better).
 

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I hear ya hoarder re Vara,

but the problem for me is their 'satin' is bs, it is actually semi-gloss.

looks like 1950's crap using that stuff

but that of course is a personal preference

and hoarder is also correct re the tanning,
does it stabilize over time and the poly quit yellowing or darkening or does it stabilize?
for instance, if I tint the new poly and it tans, as hoarder states, it will end up darker than the other.

yet, I am going to try it and see what happens.

Didn't know if anyone here had ideas of the tints to use. Looks to me like a touch of umber and a touch of yellow.
 

newmisty

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I hear ya hoarder re Vara,

but the problem for me is their 'satin' is bs, it is actually semi-gloss.

looks like 1950's crap using that stuff

but that of course is a personal preference

and hoarder is also correct re the tanning,
does it stabilize over time and the poly quit yellowing or darkening or does it stabilize?
for instance, if I tint the new poly and it tans, as hoarder states, it will end up darker than the other.

yet, I am going to try it and see what happens.

Didn't know if anyone here had ideas of the tints to use. Looks to me like a touch of umber and a touch of yellow.
The UV can lighten yer color 30% easily. What I've done is use my local lumber yard, MEEKS and did a color match. If you're in good with the guy or gal and they aren't rushed or busy if you bring in a sample to match you can mix a little, apply and dry- repeat. Home Cheapo has a good system too. It really all depends on the person. I actually got in good with the HD paint gal who had gone to beautician school so she knew her colors like a champ. Kept her number after she went on to bigger and better things and would call her up for advice and have her talk sense into the momo's that took her place.
 

hammerhead

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The UV can lighten yer color 30% easily. What I've done is use my local lumber yard, MEEKS and did a color match. If you're in good with the guy or gal and they aren't rushed or busy if you bring in a sample to match you can mix a little, apply and dry- repeat. Home Cheapo has a good system too. It really all depends on the person. I actually got in good with the HD paint gal who had gone to beautician school so she knew her colors like a champ. Kept her number after she went on to bigger and better things and would call her up for advice and have her talk sense into the momo's that took her place.
Nothing beats asking the pros.
 

newmisty

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Wut happened to Stonedy?
I haven't seen him post since around turkey day or so.
Been wondering the same. I'm sure he and pops are busy as bucktoothed beavers.
 

newmisty

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StOnEy come back!
 

stAGgering

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Tinting the wood before poly or varnish is advisable.
Adding tint/stain to poly weakens its structure.
To protect against UV purchase UV protective poly/varnish.
I use Epifane @ $45 - $55 a quart depending upon surface, in sun soaked or sun variable location.
No problem switching to less costly on the no direct sunlight rooms or pieces.
Look to floor poly/varnishes for UV protection content and not as expensive.
Floor, wall, ceiling, trim, sash, mullion, poly/varnish does not care.
Epi is nautical market designed and cost, but thins, spreads, levels, cures, and sands like all used to do.
Oh and toxic fume nightmare from hell.
Wear the respirator and run the O3 generator, and do not stay in house, or location when done.
Add a little... little, Japan Drier to accelerate curing/out gassing. Do not put added back in untouched Qt.


Hoarder is correct, Minwax is shite...wax.
 

BigJim#1-8

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Picked up a Dewalt DCF897 3/4" 20v Impact, brand new today for $100.00. Tool only.
Looks to be a great tool.
 

BigJim#1-8

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Nice score BigJim. Didn't know they were made in a 3/4" but then again I never looked either.
Yeah it's pretty cool, got a 3/4 to 1/2 adapter as my impact sockets are 1/2".
Look forward to trying it out.
 

davycoppitt

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Yesterday a buddy and I removed snow off my house, his house, his rental, and contacted the owner of my new house and he let us remove the snow off that one as well. Pretty much can't lift my arms today. We have more snow in the forecast so may have to do this again next weekend.

Around here there are large ice dams on 80% of the houses. My current house does not get ice dams, but the other three did.
 

hammerhead

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Yesterday a buddy and I removed snow off my house, his house, his rental, and contacted the owner of my new house and he let us remove the snow off that one as well. Pretty much can't lift my arms today. We have more snow in the forecast so may have to do this again next weekend.

Around here there are large ice dams on 80% of the houses. My current house does not get ice dams, but the other three did.
It wasn't very many moons ago that for me a situation like that would be a cha-ching. I've used my rotary hammer with a 2" flat bit to chip at the chunks. Worst thing about the process is when the chunks fall. Need to protect what's underneath.
 

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It wasn't very many moons ago that for me a situation like that would be a cha-ching. I've used my rotary hammer with a 2" flat bit to chip at the chunks. Worst thing about the process is when the chunks fall. Need to protect what's underneath.
We made a bunch of pantyhose filled with salt and laid them across the ice dams to make a channel if any water does get behind them.


The new house will eventually get reworked in the attic and steel on the roof, so it wont be an issue after that.
 

hammerhead

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We made a bunch of pantyhose filled with salt and laid them across the ice dams to make a channel if any water does get behind them.


The new house will eventually get reworked in the attic and steel on the roof, so it wont be an issue after that.
Couple years back, I was going all over the county clearing roofs. They usually had about 2' on them with ice dams to go along with them. No need for tieing off to keep from falling off roof edge. At one point I noticed a small water spot in my ceiling. I've cathedral ceilings with the house built in early 70's so insulation touches roof deck with a 4/12 pitch. Always get ice cicles when there is deep snow. Found 6" standing water running the full 25' of roof edge.
 

newmisty

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http://waltmanarchitecturaldesign.com
Had the pleasure of working for Joe before he closed his custom building business and went strictly architect.
Some of the pics shown are projects i worked on.
It was a carpenters dream.
And ladies and gentleman, ironpig passed a lot of his wisdom onto me in the early 2000's. "Think like a raindrop." :beer:
 

hammerhead

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http://waltmanarchitecturaldesign.com
Had the pleasure of working for Joe before he closed his custom building business and went strictly architect.
Some of the pics shown are projects i worked on.
It was a carpenters dream.
And to think those are single family homes. Very nice.

While helping my cousin do tile work in one of the large houses in this area, I noticed a toilet that had a remote control. Couldn't help but wonder what panic would ensue if the remote ever got misplaced.
 

newmisty

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Here's a job ironpig threw me years back. This guy accused me of planting rocks in his yard! Full on nutter.

I worked on it myself over the winter while he was out of town.

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newmisty

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We're about to have some fun boys!

Stay tuned for progress.












 

newmisty

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newmisty

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newmisty

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Just realized I typed fan instead of can.

Beep stick the yard?
Hey, great idea. Sold mine though.

Did have access to some cool MD's on my recent security mission:
 

newmisty

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newmisty

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Broke ground on the fixer upper today. The landscrapers came and took the fence and overgrowth down, the johnny on the spot was delivered, hvac guys yanked out the old furnace, ducts and water heater and we started tearing into leveling the floor and interior cleanup/demo.



Next to the front door. Asbestos over wood. The gutter drained right there....next pic is of the inside of this area...



 
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newmisty

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Interior wall sheathing!




The "garage". Going to fortify this sucker too...

 

newmisty

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More pics: