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workin man

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Most times when we're doing decks I'm running the stuff solo. Since using the Bowrench I'd never do it any other way. Done a deck a few months back using high dollar plastic floor with big ass hidden clips. Trying to worm that crap without these things was a nightmare.



Well that picture doesn't really show them in use but they are literally like having another two hands. They can be used to straighten the crookedest of deck boards, awesome tool and well worth the 50 or so bucks apiece.
Bought one of those ten or so years ago to do a 24x24 deck that the homeowner backed out on. It's just sitting in the garage never been used. I'll have a garage sale soon and maybe someone will pick it up.
 

smooth

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Treated 4x4 rail posts are checking in the sun.
copper green.jpg

Letting them soak up some copper green to slow the rapid drying until I can get the cap rail on..... and supposedly treat the cut ends....
 

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Treated 4x4 rail posts are checking in the sun.
View attachment 135164
Letting them soak up some copper green to slow the rapid drying until I can get the cap rail on..... and supposedly treat the cut ends....
Not at all bad considering and relative to average. I like the color of that stuff. Id stain my whole deck like that. :p
 

smooth

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Not at all bad considering and relative to average. I like the color of that stuff. Id stain my whole deck like that. :p
Once it soaks in, It's almost neutral to the nature of the wood (or close). I just thought I'd keep the thirsty ends saturated with a preservative and try to keep them from drying out at an accelerated pace at the same time. Could be wasting my time . IDK LOL. May be several more days before I get to run the horizontal hand rails..
 
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davycoppitt

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Finished up a Subaru dealership recently. Here is the boiler piping I did for infloor heat. This one does two zones of infloor on the opposite sides of the building. 1 1/2" copper runs 150 feet to each infloor zone. Also did a boiler just like it for snowmelt outside of their car wash. Pretty sweet job. The guy running the saw for the concrete went to deep and took out a few of our loops so we had to bust out the concrete and fix a few.
boiler.JPG
 

Zed

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Bowrench -- I had to look it up. I've not seen them here.

 

Zed

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Once it soaks in, It's almost neutral to the nature of the wood (or close). I just thought I'd keep the thirsty ends saturated with a preservative and try to keep them from drying out at an accelerated pace at the same time. Could be wasting my time . IDK LOL. May be several more days before I get to run the horizontal hand rails..
Epoxy resin is cheaper than paint these days. Keep the sun off it and it is good for a life time. Two coats min.
 

spinalcracker

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Finished up a Subaru dealership recently. Here is the boiler piping I did for infloor heat. This one does two zones of infloor on the opposite sides of the building. 1 1/2" copper runs 150 feet to each infloor zone. Also did a boiler just like it for snowmelt outside of their car wash. Pretty sweet job. The guy running the saw for the concrete went to deep and took out a few of our loops so we had to bust out the concrete and fix a few.
View attachment 135274

Who gets to pay for the break out and replace?....those concrete saws have depth gauges , most of them anyway.

I am prolly talking out my arse , those 4 lines coming out the bottom , those 2 lines closest to the floor , could 1 and 2 be reversed so there is no crossover?......
 

Silver

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Finished up a Subaru dealership recently. Here is the boiler piping I did for infloor heat. This one does two zones of infloor on the opposite sides of the building. 1 1/2" copper runs 150 feet to each infloor zone. Also did a boiler just like it for snowmelt outside of their car wash. Pretty sweet job. The guy running the saw for the concrete went to deep and took out a few of our loops so we had to bust out the concrete and fix a few.
View attachment 135274
Copper underground for infloor heat, must be wrapped in plastic? I know in residential they use PEX. I knew someone way back that used copper in residential and after some years developed leaks and he had to quit using it.
 

davycoppitt

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Copper underground for infloor heat, must be wrapped in plastic? I know in residential they use PEX. I knew someone way back that used copper in residential and after some years developed leaks and he had to quit using it.
Oh sorry worded it weird. 1 1/2 inch copper feeds the manifolds to the BPEX underground.
 

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Nice work Davvy.
The guy running the saw for the concrete went to deep and took out a few of our loops so we had to bust out the concrete and fix a few.
Cutting expansion joints?
 

davycoppitt

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Who gets to pay for the break out and replace?....those concrete saws have depth gauges , most of them anyway.

I am prolly talking out my arse , those 4 lines coming out the bottom , those 2 lines closest to the floor , could 1 and 2 be reversed so there is no crossover?......
Yep, Expansion joints. They had to pay. They were told no more than an inch saw cut. He dropped the saw right down. Just glad he only hit 3 before he saw red plastic coming through

Supply/ Retrun. They would have had to cross over at some point, so we didn't cross them in the open ceiling behind the wall.(It was my screw up. If I would have thought a little better way down at the manifolds we would not needed to cross.)
We always run a primary loop and secondary loops. The first small loop is our primary, which has its own internal pump in the boiler. The water is always flowing in the primary loop. The secondary pumps as seen in the pictures below the boiler turn on when there is a call for heat transfering water out of the primary loop to the secondary loop and into the floor.

This boiler is only secondary heat. That is why its so small. The building is mainly heated by 9 rooftops.
 
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davycoppitt

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hey up davy,

I have went to ball valves on supply and return so I can localize a problem and not lose heat across a whole system.

Did you have a way to kill off a zone and keep the others up and running?

just askin'

Yep, Isolation valves on the supplys. (Ball valve before and after the pumps. They come as a kit with the pump flanges right on them). I could change out that pump in 20 min and lose no water. Then each return has a ball valve, so we can shut a whole loop. (Hard to see because they are behind the 3/4 inch pressure relief pipe down to the floor. We can also shut off individual loops at the manifolds. We put valves in everywhere. If you think it doesn't need a valve put it in anyway. You can always tell when a service fitter installs a system vs a straight construction guy. The service guy will have valves everywhere.
 
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spinalcracker

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Nice work Davvy.Cutting expansion joints?

Hahahaha , not try to be an arse here , the proper terminology is a Control Joint.

Controls where the concrete will crack.

Control joints , when cut by a saw , rule of thumb is the depth of the cut is 1/3 the thickness of the slab.

Control joints can be cut by hand using a Jointer , brass is the best.
Depths vary , usually 1” jointer.

Expansion joints are used to control the expansion of concrete during freeze thaw cycles.

An example of an expansion joint would be whenever one is pouring concrete up against an existing , let’s say block wall , one would use expansion joint , usually a bituminous material that comes in various lengths and is usually 4” inches wide and 1/2 inch thick.

Anywhere concrete butts up to a wall or against an existing slab or sidewalk , it’s always a good idea to put in some expansion joint.

I like to use 1x4 cedar for any decorative concrete work expansion joints.
When they are edged and the tops are cleaned , it looks crisp.

The last type of concrete joint is a Construction Joint and it’s basically a joint where old and new concrete come together without an expansion joint.

Lots of other concrete important tidbits when it comes to Concrete Joints but I’d have to kill you if I told you and the Union Steward would put out a hit on me.

OPCMIA Local 690
 

newmisty

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Finished up a Subaru dealership recently. Here is the boiler piping I did for infloor heat. This one does two zones of infloor on the opposite sides of the building. 1 1/2" copper runs 150 feet to each infloor zone. Also did a boiler just like it for snowmelt outside of their car wash. Pretty sweet job. The guy running the saw for the concrete went to deep and took out a few of our loops so we had to bust out the concrete and fix a few.
View attachment 135274
That's art right there. Good show DC.
 

newmisty

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Hahahaha , not try to be an arse here , the proper terminology is a Control Joint.

Controls where the concrete will crack.

Control joints , when cut by a saw , rule of thumb is the depth of the cut is 1/3 the thickness of the slab.

Control joints can be cut by hand using a Jointer , brass is the best.
Depths vary , usually 1” jointer.

Expansion joints are used to control the expansion of concrete during freeze thaw cycles.

An example of an expansion joint would be whenever one is pouring concrete up against an existing , let’s say block wall , one would use expansion joint , usually a bituminous material that comes in various lengths and is usually 4” inches wide and 1/2 inch thick.

Anywhere concrete butts up to a wall or against an existing slab or sidewalk , it’s always a good idea to put in some expansion joint.

I like to use 1x4 cedar for any decorative concrete work expansion joints.
When they are edged and the tops are cleaned , it looks crisp.

The last type of concrete joint is a Construction Joint and it’s basically a joint where old and new concrete come together without an expansion joint.

Lots of other concrete important tidbits when it comes to Concrete Joints but I’d have to kill you if I told you and the Union Steward would put out a hit on me.

OPCMIA Local 690
Around here they use a piece of wood in large expansion joints. Of course they are usually rotting away. Funny way to do it but then again, it makes sense too.
 

Scorpio

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If you think it doesn't need a valve put it in anyway.
exactly my opinion also,

for instance, many times they have a shut off on the return only so you can moderate flow,

but that doesn't allow you to shut off a loop as it still is being fed from the supply side as you well know.

totally agree with you, and most don't get that simple point
 
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smooth

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Finished up a Subaru dealership recently. Here is the boiler piping I did for infloor heat. This one does two zones of infloor on the opposite sides of the building. 1 1/2" copper runs 150 feet to each infloor zone. Also did a boiler just like it for snowmelt outside of their car wash. Pretty sweet job. The guy running the saw for the concrete went to deep and took out a few of our loops so we had to bust out the concrete and fix a few.
View attachment 135274
Looks super clean man!
 

newmisty

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Spent the later part of today grouting my new kitchen floor. Been procrastinating for months!
 

pitw

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Spent the later part of today grouting my new kitchen floor. Been procrastinating for months!

Wish you guys would quit posting stuff like this, wife may look over me shoulder and see. Then the fight will be on, again.
 

davycoppitt

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I have a laundry room in the basement that has the old aspestos tile. Its not cracking, but I would like to cover it with new Vinyl tile. Anybody have any ideas on what to use? If anybody has other options im open to them as well.
 

Scorpio

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davy,

I used the glue down over bare concrete in a bsmt, holding up great 6 x 24 plank look

But if you are going over existing, and it is down solid, that snap lock vinyl tile is the cats meow,
tough, floating and avail in many options re sizing and color

fwiw
 

hammerhead

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davy,

I used the glue down over bare concrete in a bsmt, holding up great 6 x 24 plank look

But if you are going over existing, and it is down solid, that snap lock vinyl tile is the cats meow,
tough, floating and avail in many options re sizing and color

fwiw
Can confirm in that. I've done 'The Easiest Floor Eveh' which is a strip and an 18" x 18" tile. Both had adhesive edges so care should be taken when setting one on top of the other cause they don't like to let go. Also important to roll floor with 70# roller to keep them locked flat.
 

SilverCity

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Wife and I are finishing up a backyard project--making a 12x20 tuff shed inhabitable. Almost finished, just need to decide on what kind of ceiling material to use...

It will be for the kids/grandkids when they come to visit or stay permanently during the apocalypse...

Still will need a toidy. Maybe rent a portapotty?

SC
 

hoarder

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Wife and I are finishing up a backyard project--making a 12x20 tuff shed inhabitable. Almost finished, just need to decide on what kind of ceiling material to use...

It will be for the kids/grandkids when they come to visit or stay permanently during the apocalypse...

Still will need a toidy. Maybe rent a portapotty?

SC
Make a sawdust/peat moss toilet.
 

newmisty

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Been working on an outdoor shed project for the past few days. Client wanted it hidden behind the outdoor fireplace. They've been changing the design off and on but finally nailed (screwed?) it down. Today I got the shingles on and gave it a coat of paint. They want peg board in the center and right cubby and shelves in the left. I still need to add battons on the exterior and plan to inset flashing into the mortar joint just above where I placed the roof for maximum rain protection. I also need to finish the trim so I can build the doors. One door for each "unit" using T&G cedar. Also used/using OSI clear caulk between the frame and brick, I highly recommend the stuff.

The HO capped off an irrigation line and laid foundation blocks around a drain. I put 2x6 feet on the backside of the "floor joist" which makes it look like it's floating. He plans to do something with the landscaping to give it a finished look. I Used tapcons to fasten the boards to the brick and used a combo of PT and cedar wood stuffs. Enjoy!























 

hoarder

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Looks good Misty. I would tell the peg board is a stupid idea and they will hate it. The hooks will fall off every time they grab a tool off it. Casing nails work a lot better and then they wouldn't have any crappy MDF/Masonite junk in their outdoor shed.
 

newmisty

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Looks good Misty. I would tell the peg board is a stupid idea and they will hate it. The hooks will fall off every time they grab a tool off it. Casing nails work a lot better and then they wouldn't have any crappy MDF/Masonite junk in their outdoor shed.
Yeah, I thought that today too and was going to suggest using at least less. They have isome peg board in the garage and want to replicate in the shed. I guess it's holding there landscape stuff. These guys change their minds a lot so we'll see.
 

newmisty

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newmisty

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WOW thats pretty cool.
Thats the old "hide behind the fireplace trick."
:green tea: What else are you gonna do with a free standing fireplace in the middle of the lawn? Might as well hide stuff behind it. :p
 

stonedywankanobe

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Lightining strike 1 month ago. 3.5 weeks of demo and 19 dumpsters filled. Hotter than hell down here guys, feels dangerous.
IMG_1734.JPG



IMG_1753.JPG

We cut this joker down with 3 saws just like yours Mr Cracker.

IMG_1768.JPG


Monumental fecking mess it was.
IMG_1765.JPG

insurance guy said leave that much standing...
My reply

IMG_1779.JPG


...Pops and i got the walls back up beams set and floor joist on in a 3 day week due to the tropical rain event that we sorely needed down here last week.

Was too feckin tired to snap a pic.
Will update