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newmisty

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This is our new favorite libation for taking just about anyting off of anything.

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newmisty

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We're just days from being listed...white outlets and switches getting changed to grey Monday.



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Before and after kitchen...

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Before and after master bath:
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newmisty

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My camera cakes poor pictures in this lighting but you get the concept...


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newmisty

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BackwardsEngineeer

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Questions Misty,
Interesting decision to leave the brick partial wall at entry and curved arch wall, what was the thought there?

Do you know the rough numbers on this project, I remember 400k as the target. Since it seems like they enlisted all the trades, in this area it would be close to 150 to 180k to get that much done. So is the flipper right side up on this deal?
 

newmisty

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Questions Misty,
Interesting decision to leave the brick partial wall at entry and curved arch wall, what was the thought there?

Do you know the rough numbers on this project, I remember 400k as the target. Since it seems like they enlisted all the trades, in this area it would be close to 150 to 180k to get that much done. So is the flipper right side up on this deal?
Your numbers sound pretty accurate. Got the place for only around $100k. We'll see how they do once it's sold! We're just getting warmed up. The primary I has already given more money to get started on the next one.
 

newmisty

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I've heard of "de-plane, de-plane, but THIS is DE-tail, DE-tail...clean crisp, sharp, like the creases in my trousers.
It really helps give it that wow factor that is almost unseen. Sets us apart.
 

newmisty

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Questions Misty,
Interesting decision to leave the brick partial wall at entry and curved arch wall, what was the thought there?

Do you know the rough numbers on this project, I remember 400k as the target. Since it seems like they enlisted all the trades, in this area it would be close to 150 to 180k to get that much done. So is the flipper right side up on this deal?
I could write a small book about those two decisions and a novel about the rest! Weighing all of our options we went with the path of least resistance, consensus decisions and a bunch of serendipity.
 

davycoppitt

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Got the brick work finished on the front door. They did a really good job on both inside and out. Next to put a metal awning over the top of the door with two nice outdoor lights next to the door. Only real hurdle left in the project is the fireproofing from the first floor to the second. We cannot get any straight answers on what to do from anybody, but we are getting there.

IMG_1808 (5).jpg
 

newmisty

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Got the brick work finished on the front door. They did a really good job on both inside and out. Next to put a metal awning over the top of the door with two nice outdoor lights next to the door. Only real hurdle left in the project is the fireproofing from the first floor to the second. We cannot get any straight answers on what to do from anybody, but we are getting there.

View attachment 172402
Two layers of 5/8 drywall is what I have known in some settings to be commercial code between units and use of that fire blocking spray foam around any openings in the ceiling. That's just my limited understanding as food for thought. Whoever is going to come out and do the inspection should be able to cite the code and know what you need to meet.
 
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davycoppitt

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Two layers of 5/8 drywall is what I have known in some settings to be commercial code between units and use of that fire blocking spray foam around any openings in the ceiling. That's just my limited understanding as food for thought. Whoever is going to come out and do the inspection should be able to cite the code and know what you need to meet.
Thanks. Seems simple, but its a shit storm when you have to try to get an answer from the inspector, fire marshal, and the architect. We did have the fire marshal out there to look, but he wouldn't give any definite answers, he would throw it back on the architect. Having him out there may have been the best thing that has happend to us. He was so impressed with what we are doing he put us in contact with his 80 year old friend who is looking to dump two properties. We made an offer today on both of them.
 

Scorpio

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that is kind of a bugger for sure,
for walls as new states, a couple of layers of 5/8 works
but every circumstance is different

for instance between units with zero lot line, 2 walls, air gap, 1 layer in between, then 5/8 on each outer

ceilings, many times it will be 2 layers 5/8 but with a 'hat' channel between layers that provides the air gap.

1.jpg
 

davycoppitt

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Your exactly right Scorp. I should have explained further. Ceiling will be mineral wool, hat channel, and 2 layers of 5/8 rock. Where we are coming into problems was fire collars around pipes(wouldn't allow us to use them). We now are putting soffit around every pipe. In some spots dropping the whole ceiling. We also wanted to keep the massive I beams exposed. They finally allowed us to use Fame off intumescent paint, but will have to have the thickness tested by a 3rd party. Mineral wool and soffits are going up this week. Got to get the exact beam dimensions to flame off for the thickness, then will order that. Sounds like allot of money and work, but the I beams will be one of the major focal points on the lower level.

Upstairs is rocked and being taped this week. Then its go time up there. We made an offer on those two properties yesterday and are waiting to hear back. Didn't really want to take on more with what's going on in the world, but this was an opportunity too good to pass up.

Also passed my Journeyman test yesterday. 6 years of night schooling is officially over. Got a bump to Forman pay at work since I was already at journeyman pay.

IMG_1912.jpg
 
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newmisty

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Your exactly right Scorp. I should have explained further. Ceiling will be mineral wool, hat channel, and 2 layers of 5/8 rock. Where we are coming into problems was fire collars around pipes(wouldn't allow us to use them). We now are putting soffit around every pipe. In some spots dropping the whole ceiling. We also wanted to keep the massive I beams exposed. They finally allowed us to use Fame off intumescent paint, but will have to have the thickness tested by a 3rd party. Mineral wool and soffits are going up this week. Got to get the exact beam dimensions to flame off for the thickness, then will order that. Sounds like allot of money and work, but the I beams will be one of the major focal points on the lower level.

Upstairs is rocked and being taped this week. Then its go time up there. We made an offer on those two properties yesterday and are waiting to hear back. Didn't really want to take on more with what's going on in the world, but this was an opportunity too good to pass up.

Also passed my Journeyman test yesterday. 6 years of night schooling is officially over. Got a bump to Forman pay at work since I was already at journeyman pay.

View attachment 173384
Congratulations brother Pit.
 

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Also passed my Journeyman test yesterday. 6 years of night schooling is officially over. Got a bump to Forman pay at work since I was already at journeyman pay.
Good work, davey, congrats!
BF
 

davycoppitt

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Fire suppression is a big part of building these days. Makes sense but adds substantially to costs.

Congrats on the journeyman's certification, davy. Is there a higher rank?
HVAC is a little goofy. As for rank there isn't anything higher. There is Forman pay which is $3.80 above Journeyman's pay.

We only have one state license which is the High pressure license. Covers Boilers/piping for water over 30 PSI, 15PSI for steam, and ammonia.

Everything else is a city comp card. Which for MN is only Minneapolis and St. Paul. You can then get your master Comp card. Everyone wants to get their master comp card to say they have it. I do not. My belief is you only have your masters if you own a shop. The only difference between my card and a master card is I could then pull a permit for new installation. I will never need to pull a permit. My shop will pull a permit for me anytime I want for cost.

I was talking with a lawyer on the master card license. Lets say I am on a job with 4 journeyman or apprentices. I have my masters and everybody else does not. I am more liable for anything that goes wrong on the jobsite than the others, since I have my maters card. My theory is unless you want to own a shop or the shop is paying you a ton of money to have it, don't get it.
 

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HVAC is a little goofy. As for rank there isn't anything higher. There is Forman pay which is $3.80 above Journeyman's pay.

We only have one state license which is the High pressure license. Covers Boilers/piping for water over 30 PSI, 15PSI for steam, and ammonia.

Everything else is a city comp card. Which for MN is only Minneapolis and St. Paul. You can then get your master Comp card. Everyone wants to get their master comp card to say they have it. I do not. My belief is you only have your masters if you own a shop. The only difference between my card and a master card is I could then pull a permit for new installation. I will never need to pull a permit. My shop will pull a permit for me anytime I want for cost.

I was talking with a lawyer on the master card license. Lets say I am on a job with 4 journeyman or apprentices. I have my masters and everybody else does not. I am more liable for anything that goes wrong on the jobsite than the others, since I have my maters card. My theory is unless you want to own a shop or the shop is paying you a ton of money to have it, don't get it.
You're good until nobody is hiring and by the looks of things, that won't be happening soon.

Thanks for letting us follow on your journey (no pun intended). 6 years already. I remember when you first started classes.
 

newmisty

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I honestly couldn't apply caulk this sloppy if I tried. My mind never ceases to be boggled.

IMG_20200722_152400153.jpg
 

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newmisty

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Just an FYI on a tried and true product that can really save you some hassle/energy. It's a Minwax product called wood hardener. Anytime you have soft wood that you don't want to tear out or is just on the verge of starting to rot you brush this stuff on and it hardens the wood. Great product.

 

pitw

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Just an FYI on a tried and true product that can really save you some hassle/energy. It's a Minwax product called wood hardener. Anytime you have soft wood that you don't want to tear out or is just on the verge of starting to rot you brush this stuff on and it hardens the wood. Great product.


Geez get that off the site before shooty sees it and harms himself.
 

newmisty

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My job today is to make this look good.
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Painting over unpaintable silicone
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So what is the plan misty? What product and color are you going to finish with.....?

Keep us posted when the last one sells, I'd be real interested on how they made out...
 

Uglytruth

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Where is a good place to buy the magnetic door seals in different colors? Do they have replacement kits?
 

Uglytruth

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Is that for doors or windows? They don't seem to have the magnetic type.
 

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Is that for doors or windows? They don't seem to have the magnetic type.
I've only used it on doors, you have to cut a kerf in the door stop. It seals the opening tight and lasts.
 

newmisty

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So what is the plan misty? What product and color are you going to finish with.....?

Keep us posted when the last one sells, I'd be real interested on how they made out...
Got a call a couple of days ago seller wants to put the house on the market so I'm working with the realtor to tackle a punch list. She said they should replace the door but we don't want to open that can of worms so we decided to paint it a dark brown color which would match the interior of the door which is stained. I'm told the previous tenant is the one who did this painting.

I started out by scraping all the loose stuff and ripping off any bubbles. That's when I found the silicone situation so I had to get everything off of the silicone to expose it. Then I hit it with some 80 grit using small squares in my hand followed by a medium grit sponge. Next I used a quick-drying caulk 2 cover the silicone and fill large voids.

Next I'll spray some primer on the areas I've worked which will give me a good visual on where the attention needs to be.

Meanwhile I also put a coat of this on the large voids and over the abortion at the bottom of the door.

Screenshot_20200801-191729.png



So I'll actually start by sanding the patching compound and putting on the second coat, then I'll use DAP 230 caulking for the 2nd coat of caulk.

My go to paint is Behr Ultra with the Paint & primer in one. The stuff is amazing. It brushes on like an oil paint, covers incredibly well, dries quick and is very durable and very reasonably priced when compared to say Sherwin-Williams who I am not a fan of. The last gallon I used from them was total crap and at a cost of $75 a gallon. I couldn't believe it. Had to put 3 coats of white on just to cover the underlying light color.
 
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newmisty

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Round one completed

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